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Evolution of the Victorian & 19th-Century Silhouette - Coggle Diagram
Evolution of the Victorian & 19th-Century Silhouette
1850s (Triumph of the Crinoline)
Silhouette:
Massive, spherical dome shape.
Key Features:
Invention of the cage crinoline (1856)—a lightweight structure made of flexible steel hoops that replaced heavy petticoats. It enabled monumental skirt volumes while keeping the garment relatively light for the wearer.
1860s (Elliptical Crinoline):
Silhouette:
Shift of volume toward the back.
Key Features:
The skirt loses its symmetrical dome shape: the front flattens while fabric gathers at the back to create a train. Marks the birth of modern haute couture led by Charles Frederick Worth.
1870s (First Tournure / Bustle Era):
Silhouette:
Narrow, elongated torso with a prominent rear projection.
Key Features:
Disappearance of the crinoline in favor of the bustle (tournure)—a rigid pad or half-cage attached at the lower back. Garments feature heavy draping, ribbons, bows, and tassels gathered behind.
1870s–1880s ("Cuirass" & Second Bustle Era):
Silhouette
Rigid, geometric "shelf" profile.
Key Features:
The bustle reaches its peak horizontal extension (a right-angled shelf). The bodice extends down over the hips like a rigid armor (cuirass bodice), severely restricting movement.
1890s (S-Curve & Belle Époque):
Silhouette:
Sinuous, serpentine "S-bend" profile.
Key Features:
Ergonomic corsets push the bust forward ("pigeon breast") and tilt the hips backward. Sleeves swell back up at the shoulders. Skirts fit closely over the hips before flaring out like a blossom without internal rigid frames.