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coasts image - Coggle Diagram
coasts
waves
as a wave approaches shallow water friction with the seabed increases and the waves slows down. This also increases the wave hight untill the wave breaks on shore.
DESTRUCTIVE WAVES) high wave hight, high frequency. Their steep wave hight plunges down when it breaks resulting in a strong backwash . It also inhibits the swash from the next wave. Backwash pulls material down the beach creating a steep beach profile.
CONSTRUCTIVE WAVES) low wave hight, long wave length, frequency of 6-8 per min. They have a strong swah but this looses energy quickly resulting in a week backwash. Material is slowly but constantly moved up the beach.
beaches
SANDY BEACHES) gentil gradient as swash strugels to infiltrate meaning wave still has energy for backwash making them more equal
SHINGLEBEACHES) stones deposated get left on beach as backwash sinks into stones so carnt carry back out, this causes a steep gradient. Berms form at different tide levals
BACKSHORE-back of beach near cliffs. OFFSHORE-far away sea. NERESHORE- sea close to beach. FORESHORE- wave meets beach. STORM BEACH- where only big waves go. MAXIMUM SPRING TIDE- further than normal foreshore
wave refraction
Wave cut platforms around headland slow and change the direction of waves towards the headland. The waves also compress together which increases the wave hight and they become destructive waves directed towards the headland. This creates positive feedback as the processes eroding the headland and revealing a wave cut platform which makes the process worse.
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tidal surges) when weather conditions give rise to strong winds which can produce much higher water levels than those at high tide.
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depressions- intense low pressure weather systems needs to form. When 2 air masses meet the hot air rises and the cool air sinks creating low pressure. This causes clouds and rainfall to form. Depressions therefore bring unsettled weather and rain, winds are normally stronger
coastal geomorphology- the coreolus effect moves water around the UK, as the depth and width of the North Sea decreases towards the south it funnels the water, and rises the sea level further.
In December 2013 a storm surge coincided with high spring tides. It resulted in significant flooding in areas such as hull. However, the flood barrier did help thousands further up the river.
sediment cells
a stretch of coastline usually bordered by two landforms where the movement of sediment tends to be contained. In theory they are closed systems however, sediment is able to leave and enter.
there are 11 sediment cells along the coast of England and Wales. They vary in size and the larger ones are devided into smaller sub cells for closer study and management. The Holderness coast cell is boarded by spurn point spit and Flambrough head headland.
Inputs- river sediment, coastal erosion, offshore sorces e.g. bars
Transfers- longshore drift, rip currents,
Stores- beaches, sand dunes, offshore deposits
geology
differential erosion) variation in the rates at which rocks wear away. Very resistant rocks such as granite and chalk tend to be eroded less than weaker materials such as clay.
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discordant coastline- the rocks run at right angles to the coast allowing the sea to penitrate along the weaker clays creating large bays.
tides
spring tide) Twice in a looner month when the sun and earth are in a straight line the tide is the strongest as there is extra gravitational pull. This creates a large tidal range.
normal tides) periodic rise and fall in the sea level caused by the gravitational pull of the moon. The moon pulls water towards it, creating high tide and there is a compensatory bulge on the opposite side. In the areas between the bulges the tide is the lowest.
Neep tide) Twice in a month the sun and moon are perpendicular to each other. This alignment gives the lowest tidal range. the high and low tides are between 10-30% lower than average.