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(TO DO, pleating process: explanations & demonstrations, introductions…

- - - - fundamentals
        
        what is pleating?
        
        origins and evolution?
        
        uses?
        
        famous historical examples
        
        emerging designers and contemporary applications
        
        machine pleating vs hand pleating
        
        artisanal vs commercial styles and methods
      - pleating styles & display
        
        machine pleating styles offered by SP
        
        knife pleat
        
        box pleat
        
        tree bark
        
        combination pleat
        
        fabric samples for comparison of rigidity vs fluidity
        
        'tour' of different pleating machines in SP and their basic components
        
        cardboard moulds available at SP
        
        sunray
        
        decorative sunray
        
        single unit molecule tessellations
        
        molecule arrangement/ combination
        
        basic
        
        5x most popular styles to be unrolled, clipped and extended, with students assisting with the collecting process (linear vs radial)
        
        comparison of new vs old moulds, relevant techniques, finishing and paper characteristics
        
        hand pleating & fabric manipulation techniques
        
        all over crush
        
        vertical crush
        
        accordion stitching
        
        folded pattern pieces
      - demonstration with sunray mould describing the heat setting process, using before and after fabric sample
      - fabric preparation and considerations
        
        fibre content, warp and weft
        
        natural vs synthetic
        
        fabric care
        
        cocoflip examples
        
        mixed fibres
        
        hemming and ironing
        
        crease testing and ironing
        
        curved and fluted hems (reference to curved hem techniques ebook)
        
        hemming before vs after pleating garment
        
        bias, stretch and grain-line
        
        direction of stretch (warp or weft) vs direction of pleats, impact on final garment and sewing
        
        pleating on the straight grain vs bias grain
        
        aligning grain lines correctly to fit pattern piece and direction of pleats - example of shifting grain lines in radial designs
        
        shrinkage, calculating fabric dimensions and cutting
        
        minimising fabric waste through pattern placement
        
        ^ sunrays and seam placement
        
        face and reverse side of fabric matched with direction of pleats
        
        formulas for knife/ box pleating
        
        formulas for waist and hemlines
        
        calculating two/three way shrinkage for decorative pleating styles
        
        pleating prints and patterns
        
        pictorial print placement (samples)
        
        repeat tile prints (samples)
        
        intentional vs experimental placement
- - - - arrival, greeting, bags, workshop packs (5mins)
      - what to expect from the workshop: aims & summary of activities (5mins)
      - simon: specialty pleaters' history, existing challenges, including questions (10mins)
      - avril: brief description of issi fellowship and global pleating internship, including questions (10mins)
      - brief student introductions: name, background/interest in pleating, any particular requests or questions re activities (5 -10mins)
    - - fundamentals
        
        considerations for designers
        
        scoring pack
- - - - crossways grid including 45 angle overlay (vertical, horizontal, diagonal left, diagonal right)
      - practice folding single rows and whole sheet
      - 'warm up' for eyes and hands, become acquainted with qualities of the card
    - - accordion scoring
        
        chevron scoring
        
        2cmx2cm grid
        
        choice of full sheet chevron, border or centred row
        
        choice of scoring tools
    - - accordion folding
        
        chevron folding
        
        practice collecting/tying with fabric
        
        steaming instructions for home use