Key information for Coastal Landscapes

Processes of erosion

Hydraulic action - force of the water hitting the bank, breaking pieces off

Corrosion - some rocks are dissolved by the acids carried in the water

Attrition - material carried along in the river bashes into other bits of material and breaks into smaller bits

Abrasion (Corrasion) - bits of material carried in the water rubs away the banks like sandpaper

Key definitions

Fetch - an area of ocean or lake surface over which the wind blows, thus generating waves

Erosion - a geological process where material is being removed

Processes of transportation

Traction - large, heavy particles are rolled along the river bed

Saltation - pebbles are bounced along the river bed, most commonly near the source

Suspension - Lighter sediment is suspended within the water, most commonly near the river mouth

Solution - transport of dissolved sediment, varies along the river as it is dependent on the presence of soluble rocks

Concordant coastline - layers of rock run parallel with the coastline

Discordant coastline - layers of rock are perpendicular to the coastline

Landforms

Tombolo - a bar of deposited material linking the mainland to an island. Example: Chesil Beach

Bar - a ridge of sand that blocks off a bay or river mouth, will create a lagoon behind it across a non-river bay

Spit -

Coastal system

Coastal landscapes are open systems, meaning energy and matter can enter and leave the system

In theory, inputs, processes (throughputs) and outputs work together to create coastal equilibrium

However, in reality, human actions affect the state of equilibrium within the coastal system

Inputs: marine, energy, geological, atmospheric, people

Throughputs: stores (sediment/ beaches), flow (transfers)

Processes: deposition, erosion, weathering, mass movement

Outputs: marine and wind erosion, evaporation, landforms of erosion, landforms of deposition

When a system's inputs and outputs are equal, it reaches a state of equilibrium

When the rate of sediment being added to a beach is equal to the rate it is being removed, so the beach will remain the same size

Negative feedback - A stabilising mechanism acting to oppose changes to coastal morphology and establish equilibrium

Positive feedback - pushes a coastal system away from equilibrium by modifying its morphology until a threshold is reached, whereby a different type of response occurs

A coastal in equilibrium is able to dissipate or reflect incoming energy without the occurrence of sediment or output and change to morphology

Waves

Wavelength - distance between two successive crests or troughs

Wave frequency - number of waves per minute

Wave amplitude - distance between the trough and crest

Waves are influenced by many factors, such as: the shape and gradient of the sea floor and the irregularity of the coastline

Water molecules do not move with the wave, they move in a circular motion and return to their point of origin

Energy moves through the wave

Process of waves breaking

Waves start our at sea and have a circular orbit

As waves approach the shore, friction (from the sea bed) slows down the base of the wave

This causes the orbit to become elliptical

Until the top of the wave breaks over

Destructive

Constructive

Long wave lengths, low frequency (8-10 waves per minute)

Low wave height (under 1 metre)

Wave front is gently sloping

Gains a little height, breaks and spills on the beach

Water spreads a long way up the gently sloping beach

Strong swash but weak backwash

Gently sloping sea floor

Wave height over 1 metre

Steep wave front

Breaking wave gains much height

Wave plunges onto steep beach, energy
directed downwards so does not travel far up the beach

Weak swash but strong backwash which erodes sand

Offshore bar is formed where sand is deposited

Factors that influence the coastline

Tides

Tides - long-period waves that roll around the planet as the ocean is 'pulled' back and forth by the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun as these bodies interact with the earth in their monthly and yearly orbits

Spring (king) tide - the 'springing forth' of the tide during the new and full moon

Neap tide - seven days after the spring tide and refers to a period of moderate tides when the sun and moon are at tight angles to each other

Tidal range

Tidal range - the vertical difference in height between consecutive high and low waters over a tidal cycle. The range of the tide varies between locations and also varies over a range of time scales

Enclosed seas (like the Mediterranean) have a low tidal range, wave action is restricted to a narrow area of land

Funnelled coasts experience tidal ranges as high as 14m

It influences where wave action occurs, the weathering process and the scouring effect of waves

Geology

Geology - main aspects that influence coastal landscapes are lithology and structure

LIthology - describes the physical and chemical composition of rocks. Clay has a weak lithology, little resistance to erosion, weathering and mass movement. It focuses on the bonds between the particles that make up the rock

Structure

Structure - determines if coastlines are concordant or discordant. Factors include: jointing, permeability (primary and secondary), bedding and faulting

Jointing - a joint is a break of natural origin in a layer or body of rock that lacks visible or measurable movement parallel to the surface of the fracture

Permeability - a measure of the ability of water to move through a rock

Primary permeability - chalk: pores separating the mineral particles absorb water

Secondary permeability - limestone: water seeps into joints which are enlarged by solution

Bedding (stratification) - is one of the most prominent features of sedimentary rocks, which are usually made up of piles of layers (strata) of sediments deposited one on top of another. These beds range from millimetres thick to multiple metres thick

Faulting - a planar fracture or discontinuity in a volume of rock across which there have been significant displacements as a result of rock-mass movements

Currents

Currents - nearshore and offshore currents influence coastal landscapes

Rip currents - calm patches in the surf with waves breaking on either side. Rippled foamy, or choppy water. Areas with a darker water colour (sand suspended in the water). Adjacent sand bars, reefs or onshore holes

Ocean currents - large scale phenomena. Generated by the Earth's rotation and by convection. Set in motion by the movement of winds across the water surface. Ocean currents transfer heat energy from low latitudes towards the poles. Limited impact on coastal geomorphology, this affects air temperature and therefore sub-aerial processes (weathering and mass movement)

Terrestrial

Rivers are major sources of sediment input to the coastal sediment budget. Very visible on coasts with steep gradient. Sediment delivery to the shoreline is intermittent - mostly occurs during flooding. Sediment origin is inland erosion (water, wind, sub aerial processes)

Wave erosion - another source of large amounts of sediment that contributes to coastal sediment budgets

Cliff erosion can be increased due to sea level rise and storm surge evens. In some areas cliff erosion contributes as much as 70% of material found in coastal management systems

Long-shore drift moves sediment along the coast to adjacent areas

Rock structure

Structure is a very important influence on the planform
of coasts at a regional scale

Rock outcrops that are uniform, or run parallel to the coast, tend to produce straight coastlines (concordant)

Where rocks lie at right angles to the coast they create a discordant planform. The more resistan rocks form headland the weaker rocks form bays

Rock outcrops are visible exposures of bedrock or other geological formations at the surface of the Earth

Human

Beach nourishment when a coastal
sediment budget is in deficit

Offshore

Constructive waves - bring sediment from offshore locations (marine deposits), tides and currents

Wind - blows sediment from other locations, has less energy than water, so it transports finer sediment and less of it

Sub-aerial processes

Physical weathering

Freeze-thaw - occurs when water continually seeps into cracks, freezes and expands, eventually breaking the rock apart

Physical weathering - the process that break rocks apart without changing their chemical composition

Thermal expansion - the tendency for minerals to expand and contract based on temperature. Rapid temperature fluctuations, such as day-night cycles, cause rocks to expand and contract. This causes stress within the rocks and small cracks form

Pressure release (exfoliation) - when a rock that forms under great pressure is brought to the surface and overlying rock is eroded away, fractures will form parallel to the outer surface of the rock

Salt crystallisation - causes disintegration of rocks when saline solutions seep into cracks and joints in the rock and evaporate, leaving the salt crystals behind (also known as salt weathering, salt wedging or haloclasty)

Chemical weathering

Carbonation - the process of rock minerals reacting with carbonic acid. A weak acid is formed when water combines with carbon dioxide. Carbonic acid dissolves or breaks down minerals in the rock

Hydration - a type of chemical weathering where water reacts chemically with the rock, modifying its chemical structure. Example: anhydrite to gypsum

Solution - the process by which certain minerals are dissolved by acidic solutions

Hydrolysis - the breakdown of rock by acidic water to produce clay and soluble salt

Oxidation - the breakdown of rock by oxygen and water, often giving iron-rich rocks their red colour

Biological weathering

Tree roots - trees put down roots through joints or cracks in the rock in order to find moisture. As the tree grows, the roots gradually prize the rock apart. Many animals, such as piddock shells bore into rocks for protection, either by scraping away the grains or secreting acid to dissolve the rock

Organic acids - the organic compounds have acidifying molecules that corrode rock mineral and as such, makes them weak and prone to disintegration. This biological action usually results in chemical weathering

Mass movement

Rock fall - a form of mass movement or mass wasting in which pieces of rock travel downward through some combination of falling, bouncing and rolling after they are initially separated from the slope

Slides - is the downslope movement of a soil or rock mass occurring dominantly on the surface of rupture or relatively thin zones of intense strain

Regolith - loose layers of rocky material covering the bedrock

Factors that can affect changes in global temperatures and ocean water volume

Eustatic changes - changes in the volume of water in the global ocean stores

Isostatic changes - changes in land level

Variations in the Earth's orbit around the sun (typically every 400,000 years)

Variations in the amount of energy released by the sun (maximum every 11 years)

Changes in the composition of the atmosphere (due to volcanic eruptions)

Variations in the tilt of the Earth's axis (every 41,000 years)

Climate change (global warming or cooling)

Emergent landforms

Emergent landforms - shaped by wave processes during times of high sea level are left exposed when sea level falls. As a result, they may be found inland

Raised beaches - former shore platforms that are at a higher level than current sea level, they are often found inland

Abandoned cliffs - behind the beach on emergent coastlines, cliffs can be found, They may have wave-cut notches, caves and even arches and stacks

Raised beach example: on the southern tip of the Isle of Portland, near Weymouth, there is a raised (15m) beach. Thought to be formed around 125,000 years ago. The Portland limestone was eroded by hydraulic wave action, partly through the exploitation of the bedding plane weaknesses

Modification of emergent landforms

After there emergence, wave processes no longer affected them, however mass movement and weathering still could

On top of the abandoned cliff on the Isle of Portland, is a 1m-1.5m layer of frost-shattered limestone debris deposited when the area experienced periglacial conditions during the last glacial period. Simultaneously, the cliff face was being gradually degraded by frost weathering process

In post glacial periods, warmer and wetter conditions led to the development of vegetation cover on many exposures

Continued degradation is likely to occur as climates warm, with chemical weathering perhaps becoming more influential

Biological weathering will be more significant on raised beaches

If sea levels rise again, the landforms may be close enough to the coast for wave processes to affect them

Submergent landforms

Submergent landforms - when the sea levels rising starts to flood the land and fills up landforms on the land

Rias - submerged river valleys. The lower cause and the floodplains may be completely drowned, while the upper and middle course may remain exposed in the higher land. They are relatively shallow but become deep at the centre. They tend to be winding, reflecting the original river route. Many are found on the south coast of Devon and Cornwall such as Salcombe, Kingsbridge and Fowey

Fjords - submerged glacial valleys, they have steep (cliff-like) valley sides. The water is uniformly deep (often over 1000m). The Sognefjord in Norway is nearly 200km long. Ones in Scotland are less developed as the ice was not as thick in glacial periods. They consist of glacial rock basin with a shallower section at the end (threshold) due to lower rates of erosion at the seaward end of the valley. Examples: Sognefjord and Milford Sound. They have much straighter profiles than rias as the glacier would have truncated any inter-locking spurs

Shingle beached - formed when sea level falls (due to increased amount of land ice) and 'new' areas of land emerge from the sea. Sediment accumulates hear as it is deposited by waves and rivers. Then when sea levels rise, wave action pushes this sediment onshore. In some places, they beached at the base of former cliff lines, elsewhere they may form tombolos and bars. The tombolo at Chesil Beach was formed this way. Lyme Bay accumulated large sediment deposits this way.

Modification of submergent landforms

Both rias and fjords may be modified by the wave processes acting on them at present-day sea level

Sub-aerial processes may still impact the valley sides, which may cause the sides to become less steep

As sea levels rise, water depth will increase and marine erosion due to stormier conditions and larger waves will also increase

Shingle beaches are very vulnerable due to being composed of unconsolidated material