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vogue - Coggle Diagram
vogue
theorists
livingstone & lunt
- while the magazine industry is largely self-regulated, there are sometimes concerns over monopolies & oligopolies
- this role was performed by the monopolies commission, ensuring fairness & no domination
curran & seaton
- major publishers like conde nast build power by merging with other rival publishing companies to reduce competition, as the power is concentrated in the hands of fewer companies
- this concentration of ownership limits creativity but also reduces choice to audiences
- control of magazine market by a small group of companies are driven by profit & concentration of ownership
gerbner
- repeated exposure to glamorous models & luxury beauty products may cultivate the idea that women should always look glamorous
- repetitive adverts for luxury products persuade the aspirational reader to purchase these to achieve the luxurious lifestyle they aim to live
gilroy = use of traditional clothing defines egypt/africa with the colonial vision & represents ethnicity as 'other'
bell hooks = vogue actively represents empowered & independent women in articles & front cover, however adverts show its still a struggle
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levi-strauss
- liberation vs repression = bold eye makeup & serious facial expression, vs other mags like woman's realm
- feminine vs masculine = makeup & jewellery vs facial expression & no visible hair
context
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primary focus = fashion & style, but set edition features travel & finance (broader appeal)
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1960s = fashion photography emerged, replacing illustrations
- a decade of significant change in the industry - traditional publishers were swallowed up by new conglomerates, most notably international publishing corporation (ipc) but also conde nast
- conde nast = still a big magazine publisher in the uk industry
- there was also a rise of consumerism & cultural revolution with new trends emerging
c&c's of 1960s women's magazines = coverlines related to cooking & looking good & main image as a close-up of a glamorous woman's face
representations
gender reps
heatwave holiday article
- shows progressive femininity as article is about female independence & travel
- clear confidence in women's own sexuality, with direct gaze & open body positioning, empowering them
money article
- women becoming financially independent to men
- written by a woman for women, acknowledging the aspiring readership
nile image
- progressive view of femininity, as women are able to travel, tapping into growing sense of female liberation in 1960s
- however gender roles are maintained as man is in suit doing work, showing women as an accessory
adverts
- imperial leather = infantilisation of women's beauty ("skin as soft as a child's") & image shows her in stereotypical maternal role
- cutex = stereotypically feminine colour palette & naked woman = perhaps invitational & sexualised
- revlon = instructions on how to apply makeup is like a guide to be beautiful, & image shows blue eyeshadow to stand out, suggesting this is what defines her
ethnic reps
ethnic reps in 60s
- mainstream women's mags often criticised for lack of racial & ethnic diversity
- few black celebs are sometimes whitewashed
- female beauty defined in relation to a white ideal
- other cultures & ethnic groups defined as the 'exotic' other, especially as travel wasn't accessible to everyone
nile image
- white model in centre third, with non-white companions at the edges, focusing on the model
- model having fun whilst others are working, reinforcing white power
- model's costume reflects egyptian culture, empowering it
front cover
sophia loren
italian film star, beauty queen & pageant winner
- sophia is not entirely central, rejecting rule of thirds & is non-conforming
- the masthead is still the top layer on the cover, but blends & fades into sophia showing her power but is also a strong brand that doesn't need to be extremely clear
- lack of cover lines = vogue speaks for itself & can focus entirely on loren
- image is a close-up, slightly low-angle connoting her domination
- her blue costume is a stereotypically masculine colour, challenging stereotypes
- gold jewellery connotes wealth & success
- heavy makeup breaks conventions of 1960s housewives & therefore female identity
contents page
codes & conventions
- language eg alliteration ('heatwave holiday')
- features on fashion, style & culture
social, cultural & historical context
- focus on 'exclusive' places, eg dubai & nile
- fashion reflects culture & trends
target audience
- assumed to have high disposable income, due to consumerist focus
- cultural competence, eg assumes understanding of 'dolce vita'
audience
demographics
- 18-35 = adverts about motherhood & makeup
- women = female editors, ads
- white = white models
- abc1 = idea of travel, money article
psychographics
- mainstreamers = well-known actress, trusted brands
- aspirers = aspiring to be the women represented
- succeeders = those with money can show that
industry
regulator of the magazine industry = independent press standards organisation - vogue is an ipso member, but tbi is not
the editor's code of practice = outlines areas under which editors need to be regulated, including:
- reporting of crime
- reporting suicide
- financial journalism