Garment Industry Information

Standard Process

Measurement

Takt Time
Nhịp sản xuất

Cycle Time
Thời gian hoàn thành 1 sản phẩm

Lead Time
Thời gian sản xuất

GSD: General Sewing Data

⚠SMV-Standard Minute Value
Thời gian may tiêu chuẩn

🚩1.Cutting(Cắt)

Production

Textile

Apparel

1.Brand

2.Design

3.Raw Material Sourcing

4.Cutting/Sewing

5.Marketing

6.Distributing

1.Spinning

2.Weaving/Knitting

3.Dyeing/Finishing

4.Fabric

Modes

CMT(Cut-Make-Trim)

OEM/FOB(Original Equipment Manufacturing)

ODM(Original Design Manufacturing)

OBM(Original Brand Manufacturing)

FOB level I

FOB level II

-is the time between starting to work on one unit and starting the next
❗-is the rate at which you must complete production order to meet customer demand.

❗ the average time it takes to finish one unit.

❗the total time it takes from receiving an order to delivering an item

Purpose: measure Takt Time to eliminate over- and underproduction.

🚩Formula: T/T = Net Production Time(NPT) / Customer Demand

🚩Formula: C/T = Net Production Time (NPT) / No.of units produced

Time from order to dispath

🚩Net Production Time(NPT) : working hour. is the time they spend producing a product/services (exclude lunch, breaks, meeting, trainning...

Ex: If your average weekly order is 45 hooks and your 3 employees each work 30 hours a week (excluding breaks, etc.), your Takt Time equals 2
T/T [2] = NPT [3*30 =90] / D[45]

This means one person needs to start a new hook every two hours to keep pace with demand

Ex: If your crochet hook team worked 90 hours in a week and whittled 30 hooks, your cycle time would equal 3.
CT[3] = NPT [90] / U[30]

Measure Customer Demand

Measure Factory Supply(completion rate)

⚠Lead Time > Cycle Time -> you have a lot of inventory

Measure Time elapsed between order and delivery(arrival rate)

Definition: is the time which is required by an average skilled sewing operator, working at a normal pace to complete a specified task by using a prescribed process or method.

Factors of SMV

Type of apprarel

Type of fabric

Size of apprarel

Design of Apprarel

The difficulty of the processes

Types of machinery and technology used

Use of work aids, folder, attachment, etc

manufacture purchase material from a group of supplier specified by buyers.

receive product design from buyer and take full responsibility for raw, production, transportation and delivery FG to buyers

includes the design and production process of purchasing fabric and materials, cutting, sewing, finishing, packaging and shipping products.

improved based on method of OEM, but the manufacturers are responsible for their own designs, and sign domestic and foreign goods’ supply contracts for their own brands.

manufacturers only carry out stages of cutting, sewing and finishing
products

Costing

Productivity

🚩2. PPA1: Pre-Production Assembly 1(Embellishment)

PPA2: Pre-Production Assembly 2

Heating(In nhiệt)

Embroidery(Thêu)

Laser(Khắc)

Bonding(Hàn)

Printing(In)

🚩3.Sewing(May)

Shoulder Sewing

Sleeve Sewing

Body Sewing

Collar Sewing

4.Iron (Ủi)

Pleating(gấp-xếp)

6.Inner Packing(Đóng bịch)

7.Outer Packing(Đóng thùng)

8.Shipping(Xuất hàng)

⭐SMV(standard minute value) = Standard runtime(MH/pcs) = SAM (standard allowed minute)

🚩Standard Actual Minute-SAM(minute/pcs) = NPT(hour) x 60 x No.of Manpower / No.of units produced

⭐Manufacturing Efficiency

Item code(Stype)

Product type

Type

Article(color)

T-shirt

Skirt

Jacket

Polo

Sweatshirt

Dress

Pants Long

Tay ngắn

Tay dài

Không tay

Ba lỗ

Bra

Cổ tròn

Cổ lá ko chân

Có dây kéo (Zipper)

Salary Policy for Operators

🚩Line Output Target = No.of manpower x NPT / SMV
efficiency = 100%

manpower = 12 người
SMV = 10 phút
NPT (thời gian làm việc) = 8 giờ

Line Output target(giờ) = 12 x 60 / 10 = 72 cái / giờ

Line Output target(ngày) = 12 x 60 x 8 / 10 = 576 cái / giờ

Ex: manpower = 12 người
NPT = 8h
Output target= 72 pcs

T/T = 8 x 12 / 72 = 1.333 (h/pcs)

1 người phải bắt đầu làm cái mới mỗi 1.33 giờ

🚩Line Efficiency(%) = ([No.of unit produced(pcs) x SMV(minute)] / NPT x 60 x No.of manpower) x 100%

Manpower = 12 người
SMV: 10 phút/cái
NPT: 8h
Output : 490 pcs

🚩Manpower = (Demand_qty * SMV ) / NPT

NPT: 8h
Demand: 100 pcs
SMV: 10 phút

manpower = 100 x 10 / 8 x 60 = 2 người
cần 2 người làm trong 8h để tạo ra 100 pcs

SMV = Basic Time + Allowance

Basic time = Observe Time x Rating Factor

Observe Time = Total Cycle Time / No.of cycle
Time is taken to do work when an observer is observing closely and record the worker’s work speed.

The rating factor is assigned based on an evaluation of worker performance which is conducted through eye judgment. A worker can be fast, slow and rating is on a scale of 100% to lower

Observe Time = 25 Minutes
Rating of Operator = 80%
Considering Allowance(machine, personal, bundle & others) = 10%
Basic Time = 25minutes x 80% = 20 minutes
Allowance = 20 x 10% = 2 Minute

SMV = 20 minutes + 2 minutes = 22 minutes for making a particular garments product

hiệu suất(%) = Tổng GSD(second) / Tổng thời gian làm việc

Tổng GSD = số lượng may x SMV(minute)*60

Thưởng hiệu suất = hiệu suất * hệ số

⭐Operator Efficiency(%) = Total minute produced by an operator / Total minute attended by him *100

⚠Efficiency Formula

Efficiency by minute = Total minutes produced x 100 / Total working hour x 60

🚩Efficiency by output = Produced Qty x 100 / Output Target Qty

Eff(%) = 490 x 10 / (8 x 60 x 12) x 100% = 85%

Output target per hour(at efficiency =100%) = 60 / SMV

NPT : 8h
Output: 400 pcs
SMV: 30 seconds

Total minutes produced by operator = (400x30)/60 = 200 minutes
Total working hours = 8*60 = 480 minutes

❌Operator Eff(%) = (200/480)*100 = 41.67%

SMV: 30 seconds
NPT: 8h
Output: 400pcs

Output Target = 8x 60 / (30/60) = 960 pcs/minute

✅Operator Eff (%) = 400/960 x 100% = 41.67%

🚩Total minutes produced = Produced qty x SMV(minute)

🚩On-Stand Operator Efficiency(%) = (Total minute produced /Total on-standard minute attended *100%)
Total on-stand minute attended= (Total hours worked – Lost time) x 60 [minutes]

SMV: 0.5minute
NPT: 8h
Output: 400 pcs
waiting for work : 30 minutes
machine downtime: 15 minutes

Eff(%) = (400 *0.5) / (480-(30+15)) x 100 = 200 / 435 x 100% = 45.98%

Use SMV to measure

Factory , Line , Operator performance and efficiency

Labor cost and associated cost

Operator payroll and incentive amount is calculated based on SMV

Production Scheduling , Line balancing

❓Factory Efficiency (%) = (No.of unit produced (pcs) x SMV(minute) / (NPT x 60 x No.of manpower) x 100%

Cost per Minute(CPM)

Estimated CPM of line = Total salary of a line for one day / (Total minutes available x Line efficiency%)

Actual CPM of line = (Actual salary for the day/ (Total garment produced x SMV))

⚠Production Capacity of Factory

⚠Machine Capacity

Production capacity is defined as maximum production or output, which can be produced in the production line with the help of available resources
A factory’s capacity is presented in total minutes or hours or in pieces (production per day)

Variables

Process cycle time (operation’s cycle time),

total shift time (Machine used time)

machine allowances

machine idle time

Formula

normal allowance is 10%-20%

there are a few constraints that may limit the capacity of a machine.

machine breakdown

Unavailability of feeding (work input)

Machine stoppage due to preventive maintenance

production rate from the machine will depend on the operators’ performance rate.

M/C = ((Shift time in minutes – Machine idle time) / (Average operation cycle time x Allowance percentage)) x Operator efficiency
Or
= ((Shift time in minutes – Machine idle time) / (Operation SAM)) x operator’s efficiency

Example

NPT: 8h
SMV: 2 minute
machine idle: 30 minute
Operator eff: 80%

M/C = ((480 -30)/2) * 80% = 180 pcs

machine capacity is 180 pieces per day

Variables

Factory capacity in hours

Product SMV

Line Eff (average)

Formula

Production capacity (in pieces) = (Capacity in hours60/product SAM)line efficiency

no.machine = 200
working hour per day = 10h
=> total factory capacity in hour = 200*10 = 2000h

Example

factory have 8 sewing line
each line have 25 machine
working hour per day = 10h
SMV of 1 style = 25 minutes
line eff average = 50%

total factory capacity : 200 * 10h = 2000h

Factory capacity in pcs = (2000 x 60 / 25 ) x 50% = 2400 pcs

How to increase line efficiency

Proper target setup

Proper manpower use

Proper lead time

🚩Reduce nonproductive time (M/C breakdown, Power off, Absenteeism of worker)

Reduce alter%

Reduce TPT (Through Put Time)

Available input

Use proper skill matrix report

🚩Auto machine use

Proper machine speed;

Proper pressure feed

Regular machine servicing

🚩Reduce helper

🚩Maintain SOP (Standard Operating Procedure)

Proper environment

How to increase OP efficiency

Training sewing operator

🚩Motivation = Incentive Bonus

🚩Selection of expert operator for critical process

Development of working methods

🚩Set-up perfect machine layout

Continuous feeding to the operators

🚩Remove unnecessary interruption during working

Set-up target for the operator

Avoid excessive overtime to the operator

⭐First Time Through (FTT) = Final Yield (%)

reflects number of units produced without defect or additional improvement against the total number of produced items

⚠FTT = Total pieces produced (output) - Defective Pieces(NG) / Total Pieces produced

Garment Accessories

Basic (essential part)

Decorative

Finishing(packing part)

Hang tag

Price tag

Polybag

Paper

Carton

Tape

Button

Zipper

Lining(vải lót, mũ)

Labels

Elastic(dây thun)

Thread(sợi chỉ)

Rivets

Button hole tabe

Seaming tabe

Ribbed tape

Embroidery

KPI

Factory

Sewing

Cutting

Final inspection and shipment

Material control

Return/Claims rate

🚩On-time delivery rate

Quality FG delivered rate

Recordable Incident

Quality Audit Failure

Plan pcs vs Actual cutting pcs

Rejections rate

🚩Avg Efficiency percent(%)

Capacity utilisation

Style Change-Over-Time

🚩Cut/Order to ship ratio

🚩On-time delivery

Downtime rate

🚩Turnover rate

Right First Time rate

Recordable Incident

First time through rate

🚩Daily plan pcs vs Actual output pcs

Absenteeism

Supplier Evaluation

Material Inspection

🚩Inventory

Tech Pack

Design Sheet

Bill of Material (BOM)

Artwork

Construction Detail

Specification Sheet

Measurement Chart

🚩NPT(hour)=Demand_qty *SMV / Manpower

Demand_qty: 100pcs
SMV: 10 phút
Manpower: 2 người

NPT = 100*(10/60) / 2 = 8.3h

Right-First-Time(RFT) or Final 1st Yield(%)

Right First Time = (Number of passed goods or Lot / Number of total produced Garments or Lot) x 100
Use at QC-endline

Ex: For example, If 200 pcs Garments is produced in the sewing section, found 13 pcs defect by QC then first pass quantity is =(200-13)= 187 pcs.
So, Sewing RFT will be = (187/200*100) % = 93.5%

WFT-Wrong First Time(%) = 100%-RFT(%)
Use at QC-inline

Average SAM = Total Earned Minutes/ Total production pieces.
Where, Total Earned Minutes is Sum of ‘earned minutes’ for each style.

Trims vs Accessory

Trims: are attached to the clothing, using for functional purpose

Accessories: are not attached to the clothing, used for decorative purpose

Thread

Interlining (keo / bo cổ)

Carton box

Hang tag

Price tag

tape

Tissue paper

Polybag

Neck board / back board

Button

Rivet(đinh tán)

Stopper

Metal badge

Zipper

Label

Ribbon

Tag pin

Safety pin (kẹp)

Size Trip