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Old version of shape dyeing technique - Coggle Diagram
Old version of shape dyeing technique
Tie & dye in peru (Oldest-500AD)
The fabrics weren't just blue-they were woven in patterns made of blue-dyed yarn
Natural off-white cotton and bright-white thread made from milkweed, a very rare textile in South America,
yarn had also been dipped in red and yellow ochre, an iron pigment often used in rock art. Unlike the indigo, the ochre would have run when wetted.
the leaves have to be fermented. Then, the fermented mixture must be aerated so that a solid compound falls out of the mixture to the bottom of the tub. This mixture can be taken, dried and stored. To reconstitute it requires an alkaline substance, often urine, which makes white indigo, a water-soluble compound. Yarn dipped in white indigo will turn yellow, green and finally blue, "like magic," Splitstoser
said.
Tjori-Clam-and-dye in Japan
Zha-ran of Bai ethnic group in China
Chinese tie-dye
white fabric used
Cotton or linen
new-born babies, bride gowns even grave-clothes.
dye was made of natural herbs
radix isatidis root
Blue colour
One of the most popular traditional tie-dye
Popular in Bai ethnic group people in Yunnan,Southwest China
Zhoucheng
small village with 99% Bai ethnic group people
became the main producing place of Chinese tie-dyed cloth
‘the living-fossil of Chinese tie-dye.’
1500 years ago in China
Blue&white,two principal traditional colours
white represents lucky & blue represents hope.
Bandhani From indus River Civilisation
4000 BC
"banda"-To tie
Products-Khombi,Ghar chola,Patori,Chanrokhani
Other Techniques-Mothra, Ekdali and Shikari
Bandhani dots
6th century paintings
Depicting life of Buddha
Wall of Cave 1,Ajanta Caves
Evidence of Bandhani sarees
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Plucking cloth with fingernails
tiny bindings
Figurative design
Centres in Gujarat,Rajasthan,Sindh,Punjab & Tamil Nadu-Sungudi
Started by Khatri community of Gujarat
Initially dyes in extracts of plants,flowers,leaves,bark etc
Turmeric & Indigo
Stuck to cotton fabrics
Introduced in Jamnagar
First Bandhani saree
Bana Bhatt's Harshacharita in a royal marriage
Believed that saree brought good future to a bride
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Considered as dyeing but a way of changing color
Preparing a dye bath,came later
Main colors-yellow, red, blue, green and black
Leheriya in Rajasthan
Waves of the ocean
Rolling,folding & Re-Rolling
Plangi & tritik in Indonesia
Brought to Sumatra from India through trade
6-7th century
Depiction on Ajanta Caves
In Islands of Sumatra,Java,Bali, Sulawesi& parts of Kalimantan
Textiles
Coarse cottons to fine Chinese Shantung silk
It takes several days to complete a complex silk pelangi.
Process of dyeing is same till date except for introduction of chemical dyes today
Tritik-Drips of water
pelangi technique is often combined with tritik
the resist is stitched into the cloth,using strong pineapple thread that will not break when pulled tight, or these days, plastic, to gather the cloth.
the cloth is compressed along the line of stitching thus forming a resist and preventing the dye from seeping in
tritik resembles small droplets of water running around a single line. Borders of many pelangi slendangs or shoulder wraps are decorated in this way.
Also Pelangi-Rainbow
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Tie-Dye in West Africa
Enlarge their circles to create bold,graphic,oversize motifs
In tie and dye method, small areas of cloth are tied using raffia strings before dyeing.
Sew and dye,where designs are sewn on the clothes and the stitches are picked later to reveal a light on the dark pattern.
In batik method, melted wax is applied on the fabric to resist the dye. This will be a combination of paraffin wax and bees wax.
extremely popular in countries like Nigeria, Ghana, Liberia, Ivory Coast, Benin, and Sierra Leone
Cassava paste resist, paste is applied on the cloth mostly through a stencil that will resist dye from penetrating into that part of the cloth.
Features Ashanti, Akan or Adinkra symbols.
Many plants and animals signify different things in the Ashanti culture;an alligator symbolizes adaptability, a heart signifies patience and tolerance, and the famous Gye Nyame symbol symbolizes God’s omnipotence and power.
Gara and Adire
Philanoptera cyanescens, or Yoruba indigo is native to West Africa and is called “Gara” in native Sierra Leone language
Adire are indigo resist dyed cotton cloths that were made by women throughout Yorubaland in south-western Nigeria
Cloths were usually prepared and dyed, by women and treated in a variety of ways to create patterns & worn as wrappers
Raffia and starch were the two most common forms of resist used
Most popular traditional dyes used are indigo and kola nut dyes.
dyeing was done in large earthenware dye pots which were partially sunk into the ground.
Indigo is not soluble in water. To make it soluble, the leaves were collected into balls and allowed to ferment, thus creating “white indigo”.,which was then added to water softened with caustic soda and the cloth would be dipped into the dye and then pulled out. The white indigo quickly oxydises with oxygen in the air and reverts to the insoluble, intensely colored indigo. This process would then be repeated, the more times a cloth was dipped the darker it would become.
The nuts yield a medium brown dye. When a cloth is immersed in kola and then over-dyed with gara, or indigo, the color ranges from a dark green to a greenish black.
Once several gallons of the nuts are gathered, they are placed in a large mortar and finely crushed using a heavy wooden pestle, and then added to water with wood ashes which serve as a mordant or fixative.
Psychedelic tie-dye of Western Hippies
Closely associated with 1960s counterculture
Woodstock,the Grateful,psychedelia
Janis Joplin, John Sebastian, and Joe Cocker wore tie-dye onstage at Woodstock in 1969
through corporate ingenuity: Rit Dye
It belongs to the same kaleidoscopic aesthetic as psychedelic light shows and graphic design, the technicolor bus driven by Ken Kesey and the Merry Pranksters, and the dazzling colors experienced during acid trips.
Shibori in Japan
!300 year old
"shibori"-squeeze,wring or press
Oldest Indigo dying techniques there
Countless small scale circles
Nambu stigma in Tibet
Nambu-All purpose woollen cloth i.e
Plain,undyed strips
Dyed after weavng
Purplish-red color,Yellow,green,bue
used in monk's robes,monastic eating cushions
Tie-dye along entire length or at one end only
When ties are removed they leave white circles on cloth
Further decorated by adding stamped crosses(tigma) in various colours
Centres-Villages in Dranang area between Lhasa and shigatse
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Uses-Decorative blankets such as Old horse blanket on left,seat covers,door coverings,trim traditional robes
Trade-Remarked by Jesuit priests Who were among first western visitors
To Lhasa
In 17th century
