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Fashion History - Coggle Diagram

- - - - Bliaud
        
        a dress worn by woman or men
      - Hennin
        
        worn in 14th and 15th century, cone-like hat resembling the spires of the cathedral spire
      - Tunic
        
        often one of the stylistic features of the classic businessman
    - - Robin Hood (1100)
      - Braveheart (late 1200's)
  - - - The Knights of the Round Table
      - Sword of Lancelot
      - Camelot
      - Monty Python and the Holy Grail (932 AD)
  - - - Romans
      - Cretes
      - Byzantine
      - Egyptians
        
        We know the most about Egyptian fashion because of their burial procedures
        
        Linen was used exclusively because it was all they were able to grow
        
        Fashion
        
        Shenti
        
        The loincloth worn by the men
        
        Kalasiris
        
        the linen gown worn by the women
        
        Movie representation
        
        Cleopatra, the Mummy
      - Greeks
  - - - greatly influenced by high class society and the European Kings and Queens
      - Surcoat
        
        popular fashion accessory for the men
      - Peasants had lots of clothing styles because each style identified the woman with her home town
      - Pregnancy Pillows
        
        the maternal look was fashionable for woman
      - Codpieace
        
        decorative triangular piece of fabric attached at the groin worn by men
      - Farthingale
        
        a stiff metal con-shaped article worn under skirts
      - Ruff
        
        large stiff collar
    - - Shakespeare in Love
      - Taming of the Shrew*
      - Ever After*
      - The Three Musketeers
      - The Hunchback of Notre Dame
      - Joan of Arc: A Portrait of a Legend (1428 France)
      - The Princess Bride
      - Snow White (Disney)
      - Sleeping Beauty (Disney)
      - Willow
      - The Sword and the Rose (Disney; about Princess Margaret, sister to Henry VIII)
      - The Mission (late 1500s South America)
  - - - French Courtiers influnced the fashion
      - The Puritan costumes were very simple. When religious values are ascendant, dress becomes austere.
      - fashion in Denmark
        
        Short Jacket
        
        Breeches
    - - Much Ado About Nothing*
      - Romeo and Juliet*
      - Hamlet*
  - - - drastic extension of hips and hair for women
      - Women's dress was more spectacular then the men's
      - Hoop and Mask
        
        used under dresses to extend the hips drastically
      - Popadour style
        
        hair piled high on the head
        
        usually included pices of someone else's hair
        
        large hats topped with feather, bows and ribbons
      - Justaucorps
        
        the forerunner of the suitcoat for men
      - Spencer
        
        a short jacket with out tails for men
      - End of the 1700's
        
        women began to wear dresses that followed the simple lines of the Greek silhouette.
        
        The hair softened at this time as well.
        
        Women left behind the corset for a brief time.
    - - writers
      - artists
      - doctors
      - business women
    - - Amadeus (1750)* (Mozart 1756 – 1791)
      - Emma (1816)*
      - Catherine the Great
      - The Aristocrats
  - - - started with Greek influence
      - at the end Greek is no longer noticeable
      - High society had richer fashion
      - Common people dressed simply
    - - Coreset
      - Dandy
        
        nickname of the well-dressed man
      - women wore large bell shaped skirt supported by crinoline
      - Worth creation
        
        brings the fullness of skirts around to the back
      - 1890's
        
        Exaggerated Hourglass
        
        silhouette style of the decade
        
        wastes were cinched unmercifully
        
        Gibson Girl
        
        sketches of women set as the standard for the all-American girl
        
        The Boy-Girl
        
        a "good-fellow" sort who was a sport and enjoyed the excitement of nearly losing her life on a runaway horse more than the attentions of a love-sick man
        
        The Flirt
        
        The Sentimental
        
        The Convinced
        
        set a certain goal sn pursued it with out taking a single side-step
        
        The Ambitious
        
        The Well-Balanced
        
        the female who was all harmony and easily balanced all aspects of contemporary life
        
        The Beauty
        
        first published in 1892, became popular in 1894
    - - Gone With the Wind * (1860 – 1870)
      - Little Women * (1861 – 1870)
      - Far and Away* (1892)
- - - - soft shoulders
      - removal of the bustle
      - less restrictive corset
    - - relatively non constricting
      - sack coat, vest, pleated trousers
    - - Amelia Bloomer designed a tunic dress worn over loose trousers gathered at the ankle to make bike riding easer
      - Later the dress had a split skirt with gathers under the knees
        
        bloomers
    - - Annette Kellerman created
        
        one-piece bathing suit
    - - Meet me in St. Louis
      - Anne of Green Gables
  - - - coats worn by both men and women when driving or riding in a car
    - - the war halted fashion progres
      - the end of the war
        
        Barrel silhouette or tonneau look
        
        baggy dress and jacket. gave the look of large and droopy in the chest
    - - demanded
        
        voting rights
        
        wear make-up
        
        boobed style hair cuts
        
        skirts above the ankle
    - - designed by French designer Paul Poiret
      - broke the new rules of freedom
      - the hemline was so narrow women could only take tiny steps
      - the Pope spoke out in defense and the design was changed to a split in the skirt to the knee
    - - Anne of Avonlea*
      - Titanic*
      - Somewhere In Time
  - - - used to flattened the figure no enhancement or uplifting
    - - Flaper
        
        headband around the forehead
        
        feather in front
        
        powered face
        
        shortest in history
        
        knees were rouged
        
        stockings were rolled down just above the knee
      - "Thinking Woman"
        
        college educated
        
        opposite of the flapper
        
        dress emancipated but not extreme
    - - the Prince was the ultimate trend setter
        
        Oxford Bags
        
        extremely wide trousers, often reaching 25 inches at the knee and cuffed at the bottom
    - - Paul Poiret
        
        Designed dresses which hung from the shoulders to the waist, soft, silky, flowing, and sheer fabrics
      - Coco Chanel
        
        made a hit in fashion using black and navy in simplefill-free designs
    - - The Great Gatsby*
      - Singing in the Rain*
      - Thoroughly Modern Millie
  - - - long lasting styles in suits and dresses
      - Shirtwaist dress
      - Hand-me-downs
      - separate blouses and skirts
      - Flap sacks
        
        held the powder compact for women's makeup
      - Layettes
        
        sewn from sugar sacks
      - Hemlines
        
        went back down
      - Bias
        
        Bias cut gowns were popular for evening wear.
    - - attention to actresses offstage clothing reached its fever pitch with the ensembles created for Gloria Swanson
    - - Beach pajamas
        
        pants for women, flared at hem, worn for extreme casual wear only
    - - Annie*
      - Wild Hearts Can’t Be Broken
  - - - L85 restricted the manufacture of clothing
        
        Women
        
        one pocket per blouse or shirt
        
        hems no deeper than 2 inches and the widest part of the hem of a dress could not exceed 72 inches
        
        helines leveled of just below the kneee
        
        ruffles were forbidden
        
        Stockings were expensive and not usually available
        
        sometime women would paint there legs to look like-it
        
        Men
        
        Removal of
        
        2 pant suits
        
        patch pockets
        
        vests
        
        Pleats
        
        cuffs
        
        cloth belts
      - Europe fashion indrestry shut down leaving the U.S. to design
        
        Eisenhower jacket
        
        adopted for civilian use
        
        shoulders were roomy and comfortable
        
        "Bomber jacket"
        
        based on the Air Cops flying coat made of leather with knit cuffs
        
        usualy lined with alpaca fur
        
        Montgomer beret
        
        was inspiration for hats
    - - women began wearing pants
      - fashion was manly and fabric was sensible tweed
      - square, wide, padded shoulders
      - suit dresses were popular
      - saddle stitching trim was popular
      - men's colors were khaki and other muted colors
    - - 1947, French designer, Christian Dior created "The New Look"
        
        softer more feminine look and cureve.
        
        was stylish, elegant, opposite the wartime restrictions
        
        hemlines fell to just above the ankle and skirts were full
        
        yards of fabric and and petticoats with crinoline and flounces of lace
        
        shoulder pad was dropped
        
        bust-line was accented; the waistline was high and cinched in again
    - - A League of Their Own*
      - Memphis Belle*
      - I.Q.*
- - - - most dresses were simple with bold and expresive accessories
    - - top model
      - long and lean
    - - chic, elegant, comfortable, and convenient, and practical
    - - Peace Movement
        
        casual, sometimes sloppy dress focusing on self-expression
        
        Floral patterns reflected the “flower power” theme of the hippie movement.
      - Women's Liberation
        
        unisex clothing, men wearing peasant embroidery, women wearing pants and no bras
      - The Civil Rights
        
        movement to ethnic fashion
    - - Beatles and other groups brought looks to the U.S.
        
        Bell bottoms
        
        mini-skirts
        
        platform shoes
        
        A-line skirt and dress
        
        boots
    - - Jacqueline O. Kennedy was the leader in this trend of conservative fitted dress
    - - Breakfast at Tiffany’s
      - Forest Gump
  - - - men
        
        soft leather or leather with contrasting designs
      - women
        
        platforms and clogs
    - - 100% polyester
        
        marketed as the wash and wear suit
      - casual, buttons down, patch pockets, bell bottoms
      - comfortable and easy to care for
    - - bright beads
      - embroidery on shirts
      - Levi pants and jackets
      - tie-dyed
      - long hair and long sideburns
        
        beards
        
        moustaches
        
        the longer and streighter the better for women
        
        full bangs cover eyebrows
    - - pant legs got wider and worn long enough to cover the shoe ans scrape the floor
      - bell bottom style got popular in sleeves as well
      - platform shoes got higher with chunky heels
    - - angle sleeves
        
        yards of fabric added on the sleeve for a framatic look
      - cardigans
    - - Brady Bunch
  - - - comort and function were paramount
      - Lycra in bright color worn with "leggings" with think socks pushed down to the ankles
    - - Power suite
        
        broad-shouldered lapel jacket worn with a white of light collored blouse and skirt with pump shoes
        
        navy, black, gray, burgundy, not brown
    - - oversized shirt
      - sweater
      - sweatshirt
      - huge sholders, bustline, and wasit
      - narrowed to the thights
      - some tops long and belted
      - rayon
    - - Fashion focuased on music stars styles
      - ripped jeans
      - lace
      - lacy bustier
      - camisole worn with jeans
      - one gloved hand
    - - cashmere and cotton
      - real fur were banned or shunned by many
      - T-Shirts
        
        OP art designs
        
        animal prints
        
        puff paints
        
        sequins and fringe
        
        Ethnic prints
        
        nautical styles
        
        country prints
      - blue denim shirts and jeans
        
        western details
        
        jean and blancket coats
        
        shorts became a year round trend
    - - bigger the better
      - bangs lifted above the scalp
      - crimping
    - - some kind of Wonderful
      - Pretty in Pink
  - - - flowing A-line skirts were fashionable again
    - - platforms
      - bell-bottoms
      - flares
    - - shoes bought for every purpose
      - Birkenstock
      - sport shoes
      - end of platforms and Mary Janes
    - - become an accessory and have their own accessories
      - Bags and purses are created to carry them
    - - shirts are cut short
      - hip huggers leave skin seen
      - return of capris
    - - clueless
      - She's All That