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Footwear and Foot Care - Coggle Diagram

- - - - Styrene-butadiene rubber (SBR) A mixture of natural or synthetic rubber base and many other additives. There is a wide variety between durability and traction between manufacturers.
      - Nitrile rubber (NBR) Excellent resistance to Petroleum oils, minerals, and vegetable oils
      - "Neoprene (Chloroprene, CR) rubber – CR is famous for its balance of properties, unique among the synthetic elastomers. Neoprene has better resistance to oils, ozone, oxidation and heat exposure than natural rubber, but does not have natural rubber’s low-temperature flexibility, preventing its use in low-temperature shock or impact applications." (Camotrek)
    - - Very light
      - Requires many seams making it vulnerable to abrasion and less durable
      - Grit and dirt can penetrate more easily
      - Requires very little breaking in
      - Will dry very quickly
    - - Most traditional hiking shoe material
      - Will stretch over time giving a better fit after breaking in
      - Durable, breathable, flexible, and will allow water vapor to transmit through the layer
    - - Hydrophobic
      - Do not breath well
    - - Most rigid boot material
      - Waterproof and warm for winter
      - No moisture transfer
    - - Light
      - Absorb little water and wick away excess
      - Durable
      - Many proprietary materials designed to provide lightweight insulation
  - - - Midsole
        
        EVA or PU are the most common midsole materials
        
        Provides shock absorption and cushioning
        
        Sandwiched in between the outsole and the insole
      - Outsole
        
        The primary goal of this component is to prevent the shoe from slipping in whatever terrain they are designed for.
        
        Soft sticky rubber is excellent for scrambling in rocky terrain, but it won't be very durable and will provide poor grip in soft, wet, or muddy terrain.
        
        Most hiking boots use harder rubbers to give a durable grip on that wet terrain.
        
        Some soles use a dual-density rubber to give a soft upper layer for shock absorption, while keeping the hard outer layer
        
        The rubber bottom that contacts the ground.
      - Insole
        
        Flexible, durable, and lightweight
        
        Often anti-microbial
      - "The hiking boot sole must support the foot, protect it from shock, promote stability, and be flexible enough to allow a natural gait." (Camotrek)
    - - Lining provides insulation and moisture wicking
      - Padding protects feet in vulnerable places
      - Tongue must be able to keep debris out of the shoe
    - - Hooks, D-Rings, or Eyelets are used to attach the lace to the upper
      - Laces
        
        Usually braided nylon
        
        Round laces tend to last longer than flat laces
      - A combination of D-rings over the top of the foot and hooks at the ankle will help get the most precise fit, as the two systems can be adjusted more independently
      - Some other proprietary lacing systems do exist, and some are much faster than traditional laces. However, none of them can be replaced as easily in the field
  - - - A scale from 0 to 3 made primarily to check compatibility between boots and crampons
      - B0
        
        3 season boots designed for regular hiking, scrambling and climbing.
        
        Not suitable for crampons
        
        Flexible walking boots
      - B1 Boots
        
        Stiff 4 season mountain walking boots
        
        Semi-stiffened mid-soles for crampons and have a more supportive upper with fairly flat heels
        
        Tough, sturdy soles with widely spaced tread
        
        Waterproof, breathable lining
        
        Accept C1 Crampons
      - B2 Boots
        
        Stiffer and more insulated than B1 boots
        
        Have both a toe and heel welt to accept C2 or "Automatic Crampons"
        
        Some B2 boots are flexible enough to use for a long approach, but that often depends on the manufacturer
        
        Still Accept C1 crampons
      - B3 Boots
        
        Technical mountaineering and climbing boot for steep snow and ice
        
        Totally rigid sole
        
        Accept C1, C2, and C3 crampons
        
        Higher and more ankle support
        
        Heavily insulated
    - - In boots that come above your ankle, stiffness will also help protect them
      - Stiffer footwear will protect your feet better when carrying a heavy backpack
      - Bulkier and heavier
      - Take longer to break in
    - - Softer footwear is better suited to flatter terrain with lighter loads. They will also give you a better sense of what the terrain under you is like
      - Generally more breathable and lightweight
      - Will be somewhat less durable
  - - - Very light and somewhat softer to allow the foot to follow it's natural range of movement
      - Very little protection
      - Best with a light or no load
    - - Need to stay attached to your feet in the water
      - Closed vs open shoes
        
        Closed neoprene shoes will keep your feet warm when they are wet
        
        Open mesh shoes will allow water to freely pass through the shoe. Best in warm weather
      - Stay flexible in a wide variety of temps
      - Must have very good grip on wet surfaces
      - Must be closed toed to protect feet from rocks and abrasion
      - Should dry quickly
    - - Maintain a rigid platform
      - Provide insulation through either a removable or integrated liner
      - High Cuff
      - Stiff sole excels at kicking steps in snow
    - - Very similar upper to hiking shoes, sometimes with more lacing eyelets for a full length snug fit.
      - Softer rubber to stick to rock, but not as soft as a climbing shoe to maintain durability
      - Hiking tread over majority of the sole, except for the toe to give a smooth sticky platform for climbing
    - - Something to let your feet breath and relieve pressure after a long day on your feet
      - Most sandals work excellently, still protect your feet, but are not restrictive
      - Down booties in winter time to keep your feet warm, some inner liners can be used as a bootie
    - - Construction
        
        Stiff plastic shells around a warm and form fitting foam liner
        
        Built to transfer energy from your legs into a ski and give good control over it's movement
        
        Flex rating
        
        Describes how stiff the shell of a boot is or how hard it is to flex
        
        No standardization between companies so the number is better to compare within one companies range
        
        The Scale usually goes from ~50-140
        
        Most ski boots use buckles to lock the shell snug around the foot and liner
        
        4 buckles is the most common with two buckles at the upper cuff of the boot and two over the top of the foot
        
        3 and 2 buckle boots are available but generally give less control over the ski although they are easier to put on
        
        Custom fitting and moulding
        
        Most custom shaping should be done by a knowledgeable professional in a shop
        
        Almost every ski boot liner available is thermo-moldable to a degree.
        
        Liners go into a small oven with very fine control to heat them and start the moulding process
        
        Once they're hot, they go into the ski boot and you put the ski boot on, buckle it up, and stand still for 5 or 6 minutes
        
        Plastic shells can also be moulded to accommodate irregular feet and relieve pressure points
        
        Custom built footbeds can also make a huge difference in overall fit, comfort, and reduce blisters
        
        Mountaineering boots and other technical footwear can sometimes also be moulded.
        
        Custom footbeds will make any footwear fit better and feel nicer
      - Alpine boots
        
        This type of boot almost never goes anywhere but the ski resort
        
        Solid boot made to prioritize skiing over everything else
        
        Smooth and flat sole for a solid connection between boot and binding
        
        will make walking more precarious and difficult
        
        Soles should be kept in good condition to maintain a safe release from the ski binding
        
        Try not to walk around in the parking lot in them
      - Touring Boots
        
        Designed to compromise between the climbing and skiing needed for ski touring in the backcountry
        
        Sole
        
        some touring boots lean more towards the downhill and have normal alpine soles
        
        Most have soles similar to mountaineering or hiking boots
        
        Rockered and textured rubber soles are best when the terrain gets steep and technical
        
        Walk mode
        
        Some kind of toggle between the stiff rigid boot required for downhill and the flexible ankle required for uphill
        
        Good range of motion is ~50-60 degrees at the ankle
        
        Liners
        
        laces on liners can help keep them from rubbing on the walk up and causing blisters
        
        Need to be thinner and less warm than alpine liners to stop overheating on the way up, and to shave off weight
        
        "Pin" or "Tech" compatible inserts are part of the majority of touring boots for use with lighter touring bindings
- - - - The original floppy piece of foam that came in the bottom of your shoe
    - - A replacement for the stock insoles that are made of higher quality materials and can provide better support for your foot. Not custom, although there is a wide enough variety that you can find something that will fit the shape of your foot much better.
    - - Common in ski boots. Similar to inserts, in that they work to make your footwear fit your specific feet much better, giving you better support and comfort. The difference is that they were custom built by a professional based exactly on your feet. If problems arise later on, adjustments can often be made.
    - - Very similar in construction to custom insoles, the difference being that they are medically prescribed by a podiatrist to correct biomechanical foot issues, help with foot pain, or help avoid problems later on.
  - - - The most common way to size footwear
      - Many different scales for different purposes and areas
        
        Shoes using european sizing will have more options for getting the right fit, as there are more sizes within the same total range
        
        Mondopoint
        
        Measures the length of your foot in centimeters
        
        Generally used for ski boots
        
        The scale closest to being standardized across brands
        
        All sizing methods will vary between different manufacturers, but are usually fairly consistent within a single manufacturer. So if you find one company fits your feet really well, you should probably stick with them
    - - Measured by what is called the "last", or the width of the forefoot
      - Some companies will tell you what size last a certain set of footwear is, but all ski boot manufacturers will tell you the exact number in millimeters
      - If the width is too narrow, depending on the type of footwear, it may be able to be punched out and made wider
- - - - One thin liner sock next to the skin to wick moisture
      - A thicker sock on top to provide padding and insulation
      - Can reduce friction, but will be hotter and more moist. Reduces one factor of blisters, while increasing the other two
    - - Liner socks are not only for double sock systems, they can also be used on their own. They take up very little volume in the shoe allowing for a very close fit, which may help reduce blisters. One thin sock will also keep your feet cool, while quickly wicking away sweat.
      - Padded socks may help relieve discomfort, but more often, the extra volume just add pressure. If you plan on using padded socks, make sure you wear them when trying on your new shoes.
      - People often look to thicker socks for winter and better insulation, but the best insulation comes from your boots. Especially in ski boots, Extra material in the boot will compress blood vessels and make your foot colder.
- - - - Best for light ice and snow.
      - Easy to stick in your pack in case of the unexpected
      - Certain types can have durability issues, which could put you in a dangerous position if you were to lose your traction device
      - Metal spikes connected by chains under foot, and attached to the boot with a stretchy rubber ring
    - - Much larger aggressive and sharper points than on spikes
      - Attachment
        
        Universal: a webbing strap connects a toe cap and a heel retainer over the foot
        
        Automatic: A wire metal bail at the front attaches to a matching welt, while a lever at the heel activates on the heel welt pinching the boot firmly between the two systems.
        
        Semi automatic: A combination of a universal toe and an automatic heel
        
        Automatic gives the most secure and fast connection, followed by semi auto, then universal.
      - Horizontal front points for climbing and walking on snow, or vertical front points for penetrating ice while ice climbing
      - Aluminum crampons are very light, but not very durable best for snow only. If you expect to encounter any mixed terrain such as ice or rock, then steel crampons are a must.
      - Points can be sharpened as they dull over time
- - - - A ring of foam or moleskin that should have a hole in the center slightly larger than the actual blister
      - This will take pressure off of the blister itself, but will need to be held in place with tape
      - Can be easily cut out of patches of moleskin
    - - This is best if the blister has not formed yet, just a hot spot
      - Tape will reduce the friction over the area
      - Be sure to clean the area first and apply the tape smoothly
      - KT Tape is an excellent choice
    - - A very durable, soft, and sticky tape. Also slightly thicker to add cushioning
      - Avoid putting moleskin directly over a blister that has already formed, the strong adhesive may rip the "roof" right off the blister
      - Trim to fit