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Coast, IMG_E6106, IMG_E6108 - Coggle Diagram
Coast
Formation of landforms
Formation of waves
Definition:
- Development of energy from wind blowing across the sea
- Ocean is transferred to the water surface
- Movement of wind is affected by wind direction
- Onshore wind push waves towards the coast, resulting in waves crashing onto shore
Factors of wave energy
The longer the wind blows, the larger the waves are
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Fetch
The greater the fetch, the more energy the waves have
The faster the wind blows, the greater the wave energy is
Swash n backwash
- When waves break, water rushes up a beach( Swash)
- Swash loses energy due to gravity and friction with land, and returns to the sea( Backwash)
Types of waves
Constructive waves
Characteristics
- Low gradient, low energy environment
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- Wave frequency: 6-8 per minute
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- Occur on gentle coastal slope and sheltered coast
- Deposition process more prominent
Destructive waves
Characteristics
- Steep gradient, high energy environment
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- Wave frequency: 10-14 per minute
- Backwash more powerful than swash
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- Occur on steep coastal slope and open coast
- Erosion process more prominent
Wave refraction
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- Occurs as waves slow down due to interaction with the sea bed as they move towards the coast
- Impact of wave refraction on the shoreline is uneven
Process:
- Waves tend to converge on or bend towards headlands, giving rise to increased wave height and greater erosive energy
- Waves encounter friction with the headland as they approach the coast, causing them to slow down and break onto it
- When waves approach bays, they diverge or bend away, resulting in decreased wave height and reduced erosive energy
- Parts of the wave that reach shallow water first slow down while other parts of the wave continue at the same speed
Coastal processes:
Coastal erosion
Hydraulic action
- When waves strike against a rock surface, the waves trap air in the rock joints
- Air is compressed by oncoming waves, exerting pressure on joints
- As air repeatedly compressed, the joints weaken and the rocks shatter
Abrasion
- As waves break, sediments carried by waves such as sand and rocks are hurled against the rocks
- Loosened sediments knock and scrape against the coastal cliffs
- Weakens the surface and breaks down the coast
- Overtime, the impact from abrasion is powerful enough to undercut a cliff
Attrition
- When rock particles are carried by the waves rub or hit against one another, they break down into smaller pieces and become more smoothen and more rounded overtime
Solution
- Sea water reacts chemically with water-soluble minerals in coastal rocks and dissolves them
- When solution of minerals occurs, rocks are weakened and eventually disintegrate
Longshore drift
- Movement of materials along the shore by wave action which happens when waves approach the beach at angle
- The swash carries the materials up and along the beach
- The Backwash carries the materials down at the beach at right angles
- Process slowly moves materials along the beach and provides a link between erosion and deposition
Spits
Definition:
- A long narrow ridge of sediments with one end attached to the land
- Formed by longshore drift
- When there is an abrupt bend in the coastline, longshore drift may continue to transport materials in original direction for some distance
- When there is an abrupt bend in the coastline, longshore drift may continue to transport materials in the original direction for some distance
- Materials are deposited in the sea after the bend where they accumulate over time along the original direction of the coastline
- This forms a ridge of sediments from the point where the coastline change direction
- A hook or curve may develop at one end of the spit, most likely to wave refraction concentrating at that point
Tombolo
- A spit has one end connected to a mainland and has another end projecting out into the sea
- Spit may continue to extend until it connects the offshore island to the mainland
Headlands and bays
- Some coastlines have alternate bands if more resistant and less resistant rock arranged at right angles to the coast
- When less resistant rocks are eroded away, bays are formed
- Remaining more resistant rocks which extend into the sea are known as headlands
Caves, arches and stacks
Part 1:
- These parts of the headlands will be eroded more quickly, especially by hydraulic action and abrasion
- Wave attacks at the weakness at the base of the headland and undercut it
- Forms a cave at the area that is hollowed by wave action
- Within headlands, some rocks may be less resistant to erosion than other rocks
Part 2:
- Caves may develop on each side of the headland
- Erosion may eventually join caves together, leaving a bridge of rock known as an arch above the opening
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Ecosystems at the coast
Coral reefs
Definition:
- Coral reefs are structures that develop at, or slightly below sea level on the
seabed
- They are built and made out of thousands of tiny animals known as coral polyps,
- secreting rock-like deposits of calcium carbonate to protect their soft and delicate
- They are built and made out of thousands of tiny animals known as coral polyps,
Location:
- Between the Tropics of Capricorn and Cancer
- Along coasts where sea is shallow. The Southeast Asian Region has the largest
area and the highest biodiversity of coral reefs in the world.
Conditions
- Salinity of 34-37 per thousand is optimal per thousand is optimal
- A moderate amount of water movement ensures that corals receive sufficient amount of oxygen
- Sea surface temperature not lower than 17 to 18 degrees centigrade
- Clear, saline water between 10 to 60 metres deep allows sufficient sunlight to penetrate allowing algae
photosynthesis
- Turbidity of water must be low enough to allow sufficient sunlight to penetrate
Value of coral reefs
- Allows small marine animals like parrot fish to feed on the dead algae and breed as it
also serves as a breeding ground
Example:
- support about 25% marine fish species worldwide. It also shelters them from
larger predators like sea snakes
- Absorbs and reflects some of the wave energy to reduce erosion
- The ability of corals to support natural ecosystems by providing homes to different
species allows others to find their sources of food.
Example:
- Fishermen can use coral reef sites to hunt for fish as coral reefs are home to
many fish species
Pressure on coral reefs
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Fishing methods
- Releases cyanide which poison the coral reefs, killing them.
- Spearfishing uses electric powered spear gun to hunt fishes
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Recreation of coast
- Expansion of resort leads to discharge of waste into the sea
Boat’s oil spillage pollutes seawater
- This damages and kills the corals from suffocation as both activities blocks sunlight from reaching the algae on the corals that provide them oxygen
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Coastal development
- Land reclamation and extension involves dumping rocks and
sediments which suffocate and destroy the coral reefs
- Coral reefs are suffocated by sediments and are destroyed
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