coastal depositional landforms

Beaches

beach zones

Backhore:

  • consists of the storm beach
  • made up of large sediment, that is pushed to the top of the
    beach by storm waves
  • Berms are formed fortnightly by the spring tide

Nearshore

  • Also known as the Breaker zone
  • Between the normal low tide mark and the spring low tide mark
  • On beaches with a low tidal range, they often form a point where waves break known as breaker bars

Foreshore:

  • The zones between the the normal high and low tide mark
  • The width is dependent on the greadent of the beach and the
    tidal zones
  • Low ridges running parallel to the coastline (fulls) are often
    formed by constructive waves.
  • The amount of sediment on the foreshore is depend on the
    sources of sediment and LSD

Offshore:

  • This zone is always underwater
  • Longshore bars can also be found within this area
  • These bars can grow to be quite substantial and can contribute to the formation of barrier beaches and barrier Islands

Beach morphology

wave-zones-and-beach-morphology

There are many landforms that can be found on beaches, these include:

  • Berms
  • Bars
  • Fulls
  • Swales
  • Ripples

Beach cusps:

  • semi circular deprestion cut into the lower edge of the storm
    beach.
  • There formation has not been found out but once they have
    been formed they self-sustain due to the cusp causing the
    backwash to take away the sediment .
    beach-cusps

swash and drift-aligned beaches

swash-aligned:

  • The costs are aligned parallel to the crests of the prevailing
    waves
  • swash and backwash occur straight up and down the beaches
    therefore LSD does not occur
  • beach cusps and cuspate tombolos can form along these
    beaches due to the waves being refracted

Drift-aligned:

  • The costs are aligned at an angle to the crests of the precaling
    waves
  • on these beaches the swash waves up the beach at an angle
    and the backwash runs straight down the beach and therefore
    LSD will occur
  • spits, bars, tombolos and cuspate Forelands can form at this type of coastline

simple and compound spits

Simple spits:

  • A simple spit is the most common spit
  • They can be straight but are usually curved due to the wave refraction or the prevailing wind
  • They accumulate to form a long, narrow spit which can grow over time due to the waves carrying sediment along

Compound spits:

  • They have a narrow base that attaches to the mainland and then this widens into a broad re-curved end
  • these consist of a series of ridges which have grown over time

Formation of a spit:

  • Spits are formed when LSD extends past the beach section of the coastline and makes its way across an estuary,bay or inlet.
  • sand spits are formed by constructive waves
  • shingle spits are formed by destructive waves
  • A spit will never reach the other side of an estuary due to the river currant and depth of main river channel

Formation of a beach:
Beaches are the most common coastal landform, normally made from sand and/or shangle. Beaches have a pebble line a the top of the beach followed by the high water mark and the low water mark, in between these two marks is the intertidal range


Longshore drift moves the sediment across the beach and therefore the beach is a dynamic landforms and the sediment is moving along it, as if on a conveyor belt

Bars

  • Bars are formed when a spit exceeds all the way across an inlet. this will happen when the river current is not powerful enough to stop the growth of the spit.


  • Behind the bar a lagoon will form between the bar and the original coastline. A lagon can also form when a


    offshore bar migrates inwards

Tombolos

Tombolos are formed when a beach extends outwards to join an offshore island.


Formation theories:

  • Longshore drift is extended on the beach along the coastline and out to an island
  • The beach was an offshore bar driven onto the modern shoreline by rising sea levels at the end of the glacial period

Offshore bars, barrier beaches and barrier islands

Barrier beaches:

  • Long sandy beaches, detached from but parallel to the coastline
  • A tidal lagoon will form behind the beach and will stretch to the original coastline
  • salt marshes and mangrove swamps can also form with in this lagoon

Offshore bars:

  • offshore bars form before a Barrier beach
  • they bild up above the low tide mark by the action of storm waves
  • They can also form a low wau out to sea and then when the sea level rose, they migrated landwads
  • offshore bars can also be found farther out to sea but are only undercovered during low tide

Barrier Islands:

  • A barrier island is formed from a barrier beach
  • once the bearer beach has started to form vegetation and sand dunes it is a barrier island
  • they are typically 200-400m wide but can be very long

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