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Types Of Waves (What waves do when reaching the beach. (Step 1 - Circular…
Types Of Waves
What waves do when reaching the beach.
Step 1 - Circular orbit in open water (little horizontal movement)
Step 2 - Friction with seabed distorts circular motion.
Step 3 - Increasingly elliptical orbit as water becomes shallower and waves move forward.
Waves breaks and collapses onto the beach.
Water returns as backwash.
Water rushes up the beach as swash.
Destructive
Formed when local storms close to the coast. (Winter Storms).
Features:
Waves are close together.
Waves become high, with steep wave front.
Strong backwash erodes sand and pebbles and can destroy the beach.
Breaking waves plunge down onto beach with little forward swash.
Tends to form steep sloping beaches
Constructive
Formed by storms often hundreds of kilometers away. (Summer Storms)
Features
Breaking waves pushes large amounts of sand and pebbles up the beach (swash) - Constructing it.
Tends to form gently sloping beaches
Gently Sloping wave fronts
Low waves with wave crest far apart.