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Coastal Systems and Processes (workbook 2) (Coastal zones (Tides…

- - - - SOLUTION- removal of dissolved minerals and weathered products by rainfall and percolating groundwater. Carried in water (dissolved)
      - SUSPENSION- small material carried in the flow of water
      - SALTATION- particles are lifted upwards and forwards before going back to their original surface (bounce)
      - TRACTION- pebbles and larger sediment are rolled along the sea bed
    - - water no longer has the energy to continue the transportation of sediment. Sand, shingle and pebbles can be deposited in high energy environments and form beaches but silt and clay need to be deposited in lower energy environments
        
        Landforms are in dynamic equilibrium where over time adjustments balance themselves out
  - - - Rock Type
      - Direction of Dip
      - Bedding of Rock
- - - - Case studies- Canadas Bay of Fundy and Western-Super-Mare in Somerset
    - - Case studies- Mediterranean, Majorca, Helsinki in Finland
  - - - 1) prevailing wind. friction transfers the energy to create waves
      - 2) movement of water in deep water is in a circular orbit
      - 3) wave starts to orbit in an elliptical shape
      - 4) shallow water creates friction so the crest moves faster than the base
      - 5) wave height increases and wave length reduces
      - 6) wave height = wave length
      - 7) swash moves waver up the beach. water from a previous wave creates backwash
      - constructive wave- low wave height, low frequency, strong swash, weak backwash, wave period of 6-8 per minute, build up the beach
      - destructive wave- high wave height, high frequency, steep shape, weak swash, strong backwash, wave period of 10-14 per minute, remove sediment from beach
      - wave refraction- bending of waves in the foreshore zone until they break parallel to the shore. It depends on the depth of the water offshore
        
        waves change direction as they approach the shoreline due to a change in the depth of water. They go slower in shallower water and faster in deeper water so the wave bends. This concentrates the energy around the headland and makes them more vulnerable to erosion. At bays accretion will occur which will slow the wave down even further causing more refraction
      - swash-aligned beach- waves approach the beach parallel to the land, backwash becomes powerful creating rip currents
      - drift-aligned beach- waves approach the beach at an oblique angle (30 degrees) and creates longshore drift