Fashion Utopias? Identity, Performance and Community-making in the contemporary New York fashion scene**

Labels

Eckhaus Latta (@eckhaus_latta ; 109k))

Barragan (@Barragannnn ; 56,3k)

Women's History Museum (@womens_history_museum ; 14,6k)

Spaces of Appearance

Clubs (NYC)

People connected to the labels under scrutiny

China Chalet (Chinatown)

The Box (SoHo)

Slake: "Battle Hymn" and "Holy Mountain" by Ladyfag (@ladyfag ; 80,8k)

Gogo Graham (@gogograham ; 8,2k)

Vaquera (@vaquera.nyc ; 36,1k)

Gauntlett Cheng (@gauntlettcheng ; 15,4k)

Hood By Air (@hoodbyair ; 514k)

Groups of Intimacy

Instagram people

Virtual spaces

Instagram

Tumblr

Instagram stories

Direct Messages or "DMs"

"Club Glam" by Dese Escobar (@1inamilli0nangel; 7,5k)

"Heaven On Earth" by Tyler Sunderland (@tysunderland, 6,8k)

accounts

Ex Fashion interns I interviewed

Journalists

Public Hotels (SoHo) "Linda" + "Something Special" by Frankie Sharp

Alexandra Marzella. Ex escort, Model, performance artist, Instagram persona. Close to India Salvor Menuez. (@artwerk6666 ; 72k)

India Salvor Menuez. Queer, non-binary actress, model for Eckhaus Latta, performance artist and major figure of the scene. (@iiindiia ; 68,9k)

Photographers

American Music & Art world connections

Music

Juliana Huxtable

Kim Petras

Erik Goldberg, ex intern for Eckhaus Latta (@sad_random_gay_guy ; 794)

Rachel Witus, Rhode Island School of Design graduate specialized in knitwear, ex intern for Gauntlett Cheng, now works at Ralph Lauren (@vision__bored ; 1,6k)

Fashion Videographers I interviewed

Derek Johnson (_derek_johnson ; 15,8k)

Michael Bailey Gates (@michaelbaileygates ; 48,7k)

Ava Nirui

private accounts

public accounts

real instagrams

"finstas" for friends

Stores

The Break (Williamsburg, Brooklyn) (@shopthebreak ; 19,8k)

Totokaelo (@totokaelo ; 103k)

Vfiles (SoHo) (@vfiles ; 310k)

Opening Ceremony (SoHo) (@openingceremony ; 1,1M)

Chromat (@chromat ; 99k)

Shayne Oliver (now working for Helmut Lang) (@shaynehba ; 9k)

Ian Isiah (@ianisiah ; 42,6k)

Zoe Latta

Mike Eckhaus

Victor Barragan (@ytinifninfinity ; 16,3k)

Esther Gauntlett

Jenny Cheng

Patric DiCaprio

David Moses

Bryn Taubensee

Claire Sully

Amanda McGowan

Rivkah Barringer

Charli XCX

SOPHIE

Kelela

Arca

The Blond

Bars

The Rosemont (Brooklyn)

Hotel Americano (Downtown Manhattan)

SoHo House NY. Sebastian Tribbi is a member.

Photographers

Ryan McGinley

Michael Bailey Gates. Model for Eckhaus Latta, friends with India Salvor Menuez and Alexandra Marzella.

Meme creators

Sebastian Tribbie (@youvegotnomale ; 64,4k). Queer club host and Internet persona whose memes are focused on queer club culture in NYC
.

Hannah from Male Fragility. Friends with India Salvor Menuez. (@malefragility ; 19,7k)

Veronica So

Stylist Emma Wyman (@emmawyman ; 19,9k)

Brendan Jo. School of Visual Arts graduate. Worked for Barragan and friends with Victor Barragan, Derek Johnson, Quinton Mulvey, Charlie Ann Max, Niko Zucchero, Rachel Witus among others. (@schoolofvisualarts ; 1,4k)

Peter Do (@doxpeter ; 43,2k)

Homic by Joshua Homic (@homic_ ; 6k)

Samuel Gamberg . Works for Gayletter magazine (@samuelgamberg ; 1,7k)

Ser Serpas. Student at Columbia, performance artist, model for Women's History Museum. Close to India Salvor Menuez. (@ser_sera ; 12,3 k)

Hayden Dunham. Artist. Model for Eckhaus Latta. Close to India Salvor Menuez. (@haydendunham ; 8 k).

Quinton Mulvey. FIT graduate. Ex-assistant for stylist Tom Von Dorpe. Instagram figure in the queer and fashion scene. (@quintonmulvey ; 14,3 k )

friends with FIT graduate Charlie Ann Max. Ex intern at Jeffrey Rudes, now works for The Break, a successful vintage store in Williamsvurg, Brooklyn. (@charlieannmax ; 3,3k) .

friends with FIT graduate Niko Zucchero (@nikozucchero ; 1,3k)

friends with fashion film director Derek Johnson

Ashton Lang. Parsons fashion student. Model. Instagram figure in the queer and fashion scene. (@ashtonll ; 11k)

Friends with Jordan Stawecki. Club kid. Major figure of the queer club scene
(@stawecki ; 13,4k)

Club performer and drag icon Sussi. Based in London. (@thatgirlsussi ; 85,7k)

Friends with film director Derek Johnson (_derek_johnson ; 15,8k)

modelled for and befriended Belgian designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin, based in Paris. LVMH Prize nominee. (@ludovicdesaintsernin

friends with School of Visual Arts graduate and videographer Brendan Jo who worked for Barragan.

Friends with trans model and activist Theodora Quinlivan who is also a club scene figure. Friends with Jordan Stawecki, Mclayne Mcmat and Sussi among others.(@teddy_quinlivan ; 47,4k)

friends with art director and club scene figure McLayne Ycmat (@mycmat ; 7k)

friends with Marquale Ashley (@lilgayboy) who modelled for Vaquera and is close to Hood By Air members and the queer club scene in general.

Ryan McGinley (@ryanmcginleystudios ; 242k) photographed Quinton Mulvey.

Other important fashion brands in NYC

Maryam Nassir Zadeh (@maryam_nassir_zadeh ; 147k). On top of having her own line, she also sells brands like Eckhaus Latta, Sophie Buhai and Jacquemus.

Friends with French designer Jecquemus

Friends with Sophie Buhai

Friends with model Hailey Benton-Gates

Sells Eckhaus Latta

Camilla Deterre. Model and interior designer. She models for Eckhaus Latta and Maryam Nassir Zadeh.A bit older than the generation of the labels under scrutiny(@camilladeterre ; 28,9k)

The Row

Sophie Buhai