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Physical Factors (Tides (Spring tides (High tidal rnage, *2 each lunar…

- - - - Low tidal ranges
      - Mediterranean
      - = wave action restricted to narrow areas of land
    - - High tidal range - 14m
  - - - Variations in ocean depth
      - Topography of sea bed
      - Shapes of continental land masses
- - - - Shape and gradient of sea floor
      - Irregularity of coastline
    - - Formed in open oceans
      - Generally have a long wavelength
      - Wave period of 20 seconds
    - - Locally generated
      - Short wavelength
      - Greater height
      - Shorter wave period
  - - - Spilling
        
        Steep waves
        
        Gently sloping beaches
        
        Water spills gently forward
      - Plunging
        
        Moderately steep waves
        
        Water plunges vertically downwards
        
        Crest curls over
      - Surging
        
        Low-angled waves break onto steep beaches
        
        Wave slides forward and may not actually break
  - - - Low height
      - Long wavelength
      - Low frequency - 6-8/minute
      - Spilling waves
      - Long wavelength = next swash is uninterrupted + retains its energy
      - Energy of swash exceeds backwash
    - - Greater height
      - Shorter wavelengths
      - Higher frequency - 12-14/minute
      - Plunging waves
      - Little forward transfer of energy to move water up the steeply-sloping beach
      - Friction from steep beach slows swash
      - Short wavelength = swash is interrupted by backwash
      - Energy of swash is lesser than backwash
- - - - Weak lithology
      - Little resistance to erosion, weathering + mass movements
      - Weak bonds between particles
    - - Dense interlocking crystals
      - Highly resistant
      - Form prominent coastal features e.g. cliffs + headlands
    - - CaCO3
      - Soluble in weak acids = vulnerable to carboantion
  - - - Primary permeability e.g. chalk
        
        Pores separate mineral particles
        
        Pores can store water
      - Secondary permeability e.g. carboniferous limestone
        
        Water seeps into its many joints
        
        Joints enlarged by solution weathering
    - - Concordant coastlines
        
        Rock outcrops run parallel to coast
        
        Straight coastlines
      - Discordant coastlines
        
        Rocks lie at right angles to coast
        
        Resistant rocks = headlands; weaker rocks = bays
    - - Strongly influenced by dip of rocks
        
        Horizontally bedded + landward dipping strata = steep, vertical profiles
- - - - Tidal motion
      - Waves breaking at right angles to shore
      - Cellular circulation generated by differing wave heights parallel to shore
    - - Perpetuate the rip current
      - Channels flow thru a narrow neck
  - - - Affect W-facing coastal areas where they are driven by onshore winds
    - - Driven by offshore winds = less effect on coastal landscapes
    - - Directly affects air temperature and therefore sub-aerial processes