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Coasts (Factors which affect the shape of the coastline (Beach/cliff…
Coasts
Factors which affect the shape of the coastline
Beach/cliff erosion :beach_with_umbrella:
Weather conditions :thunder_cloud_and_rain:
Type of sediment on the beach
Rock type
Human activity (tourism, :camera_with_flash: leisure, :sun_with_face: ports, :boat: residential, :house: renewable energy :zap:)
Climate change :thermometer:
Deposition
Natural disasters - tsunamis :
River features :rowboat:
Vegetation :palm_tree:
Orientation
Animals :bear:
Prevailing wind direction :wind_blowing_face:
Waves :ocean:
Relief of land
Currents
Tides :ocean:
System inputs and outputs
INPUTS
Marine
Tides, currents, constructive and destructive waves
Atmosphere
Precipitation, wind
Land
Cliffs, sand dunes
People
Tourism, recreation, buildings, ports
PROCESSES
Weathering
Freeze thaw, biological, chemical
Mass movement
Landslide, mudflow, rockfall
Erosion
Abrasions, hydraulic action, attrition, solution
Transportation
LSD, waves, swash & backwash
Deposition
Setting out of material, storms
OUTPUTS
Erosional & despositional landforms
Caves, arches, stumps, stacks, cliffs, beaches, sand bars -> spits/tombolo, sand dunes, bays - headlands, islands, berms, ridges/runnels/ripples, wave cut platforms, wave cut notches, deltas
Waves
Waves are the movement of energy through water.
Created by the
transfer
of energy from the
wind
to the
sea
. As wind blows across the
surface
of the sea,
friction
causes the water to begin to
ripple
. As waves form, the surface becomes
rougher
and it is easier for the wind to
grip
the roughened water surface and
intensify
the waves.
Sea
– local winds / travel short distances
Swell
– distant storms / long distances
Factors affecting size and formation
Time the wind has blown for
Wind speed
Fetch
- the distance over which the wind has blown
Gradient of the beach and shelf area
Deep water wave
Deep water is when the water is deeper than ¼ of the wave depth.
Circular orbits are created by the drag of the wind moving over the surface of the sea.
The size of the orbit rapidly decreases with depth until it no longer exists.
Objects below the orbits will be unaffected by the waves.
Shallow water wave
Orbit is more elliptical due to friction with the sea bed causing the wave to slow.
Plunge line is the point where the wave breaks.
Wave length with decrease.
Wave height and steepness increase