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Jigger Workflow Options (MOLD MAKING (Option 2: WITHOUT A JIG TEMPLATE…

- - - - Set up quick release blank forms to fill with plaster. Apply thin layer of mold soap to ensure easy release. Level the mold with the table, and be prepared to clean up excess plaster that is offset and pushed out of the mold when you insert the bat attachment before the plaster sets and hardens. Wait to remove the mold from the wheel head or do any fine carving or sanding until the plaster heats up. See info in binder or on blog or original website for instructions.
        
        Customization by additional carving is optional.
      - http://pspottery.com/using_bat_molds
    - - With quick release bat attachment secured to the wheel, turn it on to check that it's mounted on center as there can be some shifting between the bat pins. Seal it with clay to eliminate undercuts.
        
        Carving can happen as plaster is curing and afterwards indefinitely until the desired design is achieved.
        
        Continue here for plaster suggestions.
  - - - Use the design template guide (see links on blog or worksheet in binder).
        
        Cut out template in a rigid material such as Plexiglas, wood, or Masonite. Consider sealing this material if multiple uses are expected and note that any texture on the cutting edge will be dragged through plaster. Be prepared to clean the template immediately after forming the mold.
        
        With quick release bat attachment secured to the wheel, turn it on to check that it's mounted on center as there can be some shifting between the bat pins. Seal it with clay to eliminate undercuts and set up a wall to cast plaster into. If the bat is clean, apply a thin layer of mold soap/Murphy's Oil. More is necessary if it isn't clean and has plaster on it. Set up a wall of aluminum flashing or vinyl siding to pour plaster into. Seal the wall to the wheel head with clay as you would coddle boards, using duct tape and/or banding straps to hold closed.
        
        Calculate estimated volume and see chart suggestions to determine the amount of plaster to mix.
        
        See Andy Martin or **Cite other book for instructions on plaster casting. Use lukewarm water until you are confident in sledging in limited time (warmer water increases the rate of curing and decreases your working time). Do not over mix. Replace a tablespoon (or quick splash) of water with vinegar for each quart measured to delay the hardening and extend the working time of the plaster. This is strongly recommended as vinegar makes a big difference.
        
        Once plaster is mixed and still liquid, pour enough to cover the wheel head attachment and pause to agitate the poured plaster by hand to eliminate air bubbles. Check wall for leaks. Do not turn on wheel.
        
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        Prep to pour plaster.
        
        Design your template to scale to properly fit and attach to the jigger arm. Take note of the path of movement the template will take depending on which side of the arm it's attached. Certain angles in form will determine where it's attached to avoid scraping into the material. As a general rule with some exceptions, plate templates are attached to the outside of the arm, while bowl and cup forms are attached to the inside.
        
        Due to the length of the arm, it's important to know which side your template will be attached so it can reach the proper diameter. For example, a plate template will need to be mounted to the outside of the arm and in order to achieve the proper diameter, the template must be designed to that the cutting edge can be suspended beyond the length of the arm.
        
        The guide is formatted for use as a printed hard copy for sketching by hand and also for CAD design through a Rhino (.3dm) file that can be exported and printed.
        
        Testing the scale and fit of your template prior to cutting out of a rigid material is strongly recommended. Hold a the template cut out of paper or cardboard to the jigger arm.