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World of Fashion (Individual Factors # # # (# # Individual Taste…
World of Fashion
# # # # # Attitudes Towards Fashion
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Though many people believe that modesty has been starved out of the fashion industry, it still has a place in the collections of the world's most celebrated designers. Here we see a look from Vetements' Spring Summer 2017 collection. Demna Gvasalia is known for his ability to blend and distort conventional items and amplify street wear elements in a way that is youthful and cool.
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Design and Aesthetic Knowledge #
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Styling Choices
Styling played a major role in the famous interrogation scene from 1992's Basic Instinct directed by Paul Verhoeven. Depicted here, Sharon Stone as Catherine Tramell is wearing short, high neck, sleeveless dress in white wool crepe and matching double face silk, diamond stud earrings, and nude heels designed and styled by Ellen Mirojnick. Echoing the clinical surroundings and seductive qualities of the character, the dress allows for a provocative leg switch mid way through the scene.
Individual Experience # #
Constructivism
Maison Martin Margiela was renowned for his Constructivist approach to design. Many of their formative works were built by re-purposing vintage clothes and items they would find around the workshop. In this debut Fall Winter 2012 Haute Couture collection the same design principals were present. Textiles were sourced from around the world, and hardware resembling regal door knobs and drapery rods provided closures and tie anchors for dresses and jackets.
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Individuality and Conformity #
Accepted Individuality # # # # #
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# # # # Active Anti-Conformity
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# # # Attractive Anti-Conformity
Punk has long been the the most Attractive Anti-Conformist style for the fashion industry. What was once a uniform for freaks and outcasts fighting corporate regime can now be found in the pages of Vogue, on the racks at Chanel, and in the galleries of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Here we see a view of the Clothes for Heroes gallery of Punk: Chaos to Couture May 9th - August 14th, 2013
# Individuality Among Trend
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# # # # # # # # # # # # # Branding
Media
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Monograms
Monograms are a graphic iconography that does promotion for a brand far past the point of sale. These patterns can display status and influence new prospective customers. One historic monogram is that of Louis Vuitton. The floral logo pattern symbolizes a time honored tradition in French leather luggage construction, a passion for travel, and an insatiable desire for luxury. Her we see it on the iconic Speedy Bandouliere.
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Promotion
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Launch Windows and Exclusivity #
A major attraction to innovative commerce in limited launch windows and exclusive quantities or access. Many fashion retailers are employing this technique but perhaps no one has done it quite like the closely intertwined beauty industry. Brands like Pat McGrath Labs sell in highly limited quantities and launches making the attraction to their products even more inescapable. Here we see the description page for the upcoming launch of McGrath’s Dark Star 006 kit. Every kit the company sells has met spectacular reviews and comes packed in a holographic bag filled with matching sequins and is labeled like a lab sample.
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Corperate # # # # # # # # #
Executive
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Creative Directors
Nicolas Ghesquiere is the Creative Director of Louis Vuitton. His job is to orchestrate and finalize all creative decisions for the house. Each collection’s design, execution, and delivery is credited to him thus he also serves as the interactive face of the brand. When press ask about the collection and its inspiration, they’re asking him.
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Ethics Directors
Andrea Freeman, Head of Diversity at Victoria’s Secret is the executive responsible for ensuring ethical recruitment and treatment practices among employees and customers within the lingerie brand. She ensures that Victoria’s Secret remains an inclusive place and in part succeeds as a result of this mission.
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Makeup Artists
Makeup artists are responsible for making the person coexist with the look. Their work perfects the nude canvas and provides the finishing touches. Her we see Val Garland’s work on Lady Gaga’s Born This Way album. The legendary artist is known for her approach to creating natural, youthful skin, and her precise triple threat liner look.
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Experience Design # # # # # # # #
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Set Designers
The set of Alexander Wang’s Fall Winter 2017 collection was within the wrecked RKO Hamilton Theater. Roving lights, loud party music, and Peroni all factored into the atmosphere to promote the attitude of the clothes. Set designs such as this play an important role in house collections are communicated by providing intimate context to each look.
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Angel by Thierry Mugler was the bestselling perfume in the world through most of the nineties which allowed the house to become spectacularly wealthy. At its launch in 1992 Mugler was three years away from a twentieth anniversary and due to the budget the perfume amassed, his fall winter 1995 show was packed with glamour and spectacle beyond belief. The fashions put forth in that show are so iconic that it’s the first thing most people remember about his work despite his success in the 80s. The perfume, devised by Olivier Cresp and Yves de Chirin is a sweet and heavy blend of thick sugars and warm florals.
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History # # # # # # # # # #
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Curators
Andrew Bolton is the curator behind all of the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala exhibitions which have over the years played a significant role in analyzing the history of fashion through a contemporary lens. This year Manus x Machina explored the thinning gap between the hand and machine made. Here in Grey Area the curator was photographed by Annie Leibovitz for the May 2016 issue of Vogue standing in the Robert Lehman Wing with a variety of garments being prepared for display in the exhibition.
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# # # # # # # # # # Manufacturing
Assembly
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Milliners
Philip Treacy is one of the most celebrated contemporary milliners. His designs balance humor, shape, line, and exaggerated proportion to create lush and extravagant head pieces. Michelle Behennah and Carolyn Murphy are photographed here by Arthur Elgort for the book, Philip Treacy by Rizzoli.
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Decoration
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Embroiderers
A fine gold floral embroidery on a blue velvet dress by Altuzarra for Fall Winter 2017
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# Textile and Notion Buyer
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Pop up shops offer a new and inventive twist on the retail experience. This allows companies a creative opportunity for collaborations with artists and architects to build engaging spaces. They ads diversity to social media engagement and sometimes allow for a market test of potential new flagship sites. Here we see Fendi’s Sweet Dreams pop-up shop designed in collaboration with Anke Eilergerhard in the Shinsegae Gangnam Department Store in Seoul. Sold within the white trucks covered in silicone frosting sculptures were a variety of bags and smaller accessories.
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# # # # # The Industry Levels
# # # # # # # ## # # # # # # Haute Couture
# # Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture
Houses
Ateliers
Ateliers are the guilds commissioned to manufacture Haute Couture garments by the Houses. Many of these Ateliers still stand today because they have been acquired financially by the Houses. For instance, here we see a Dior dress that has been embroidered by Maison Lesage who is owned by Chanel.
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Eccentric attitudes in fashion are prime for the eyes of photographers and writers. Take for instance street style photographer Tommy Ton and the Editor at Large for Vogue Japan, Anna Dello Russo. The two shared a fruitful relationship between her style and his lens. Russo became well known for her extravagant taste in clothes, committing to never wearing the same thing twice, sometimes even making outfit changes during the bustle of fashion week. Her long term closet occupies the entirety of a New York City apartment. Here she wears an Alexander McQueen ensemble at Paris Fashion Week, September 30th, 2012.
Cultural Values and Ideology # # # #
# # Economy / Available Wealth
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This look is from Highland Rape Fall Winter 1995 which jettisoned Alexander MacQueen into the fashion industry elite and in front of the world's eyes due to it's political impact. The name of the collection refers to the subject of the brutal ethnic cleansing by the British Forces of the Scottish Highlands in the 18th and 19th centuries. The look of the models was misinterpreted as misogynistic by the media and this controversy made McQueen's appeal magnetic.
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Upper Middle Class Consumers # # #
Value Driven Class # # # #
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Populations with Limited Access # # #
Susan Gutfreund is a wealthy client of the Couture houses who came into public view through the 2007 BBC documentary by Margy Kinmonth, The Secret World of Haute Couture. She's married to the CEO of Salomon Brothers. Pictured here at a Yves Saint Laurent event in 2008 wearing Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture.
# # # # # # # # Fashion Leaders and Innovators
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Red carpets are a competitive space for designers. Custom pieces and sample loans are sent to and ordered by celebrity stylists in preparation for events and awards seasons. Each company is in a behind the scenes race to land on high profile stars and get in the eyes of their fans. This is an advertising and image building exercise that can boost sales and make history. The return on investment is even higher when the actor snags the win. Here, Viola Davis wears custom Armani Privé to the 89th Academy Awards. Later that night she won for Best Supporting Actress for her role as Rose Maxson in 2016's Fences directed by Denzel Washington.
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Though the first rumblings of the supermodel emerged in the 1940s with Lisa Fonssagrives, the golden age hit in the 90s with five supers, Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, and Claudia Schiffer. Their influence grew exponentially as designers like Versace capitalized on their popularity. Though Karl Lagerfeld also participated in this phenomenon it’s rumored that he grew tired of promoting these girls’ careers over his, triggering the chase of a softer look, later titled the waif. Those girls included Shalom Harlow, Amber Valetta, and the most famous, Kate Moss (here she appears in the Fall Winter 2016 ad campaign for Calvin Klein shot by Tyrone Lebon). They were considered to be an antidote to the idea of models being untouchable however the desire to be relatable ultimately gave way and the waifs became just as super as the girls that preceded them. Forbes reported Moss to be the 13th highest earning model in 2016 with an income of five million dollars.
Fashion is a frame to a musician’s work. For the world’s most popular singers it is essential to create a look surrounding each sound for the viewer to associate with. This builds an instant connection to the performance and the voice. Perhaps no other artist has done this more successfully than Beyoncé who has branded her work as visual albums with surprise launch dates. Her most recent piece was Lemonade in 2016 (directed by Kahlil Joseph and Beyoncé Knowles-Carter). The film premiered on HBO and quickly became a cultural phenomenon. Every element including the fashion was referential of a greater context and built a narrative that impacted its viewers to think differently about the musician and how we interact with their work. The scene depicted in this still is from Lemonade’s Hold Up, she wears a Roberto Cavalli Fall Winter 2016 gown designed by Peter Dundas.
Ryan Burke is a makeup artist and self portrait photographer currently living and working in New York City as a Pat McGrath Labs brand ambassador, and host for Susanne Bartsch and Ladyfag parties. His unique style of makeup and persona creation is highly impactful and forward thinking. Though his art is influenced by the nightlife personalities that dominated New York culture in the 90s his work is surprisingly new and has earned him almost a million followers on Instagram.
Violet Chachki is the winner of the 7th season of Rupaul's Drag Race. Her impressive knowledge base, unabashed confidence, and commitment to perfection is very much a reflection of the contemporary mindset. Since her win she (and many other Drag Race alumna) has worked in both nightlife and the mainstream fashion industry, something which many drag artists could not have done before. In this photo here by Adam Ouahmane she wears her ensemble for performing in the Art of The Teese tour by burlesque legend Dita Von Teese.
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# # # Social Media Influencers
Video Content Creators # #
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Street Style Stars # # # #
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# # Trickle Down / Traditional Adoption
The trickle-down theory is the process where popularity of a style flows from the upper class and industry levels to the lower economic end of fashion consumers. This typically occurs by lower end manufacturers copying trends and simplifying designs from the higher levels of the fashion system. This allows for value centric customers to engage with designer trends in accessible ways. Unfortunately this means that by the time a trend is rising in the lower class, it is declining in the upper class. A famous explanation of this appears in 2006’s The Devil Wears Prada directed by David Frankel. After Andy (played by Anne Hathaway) sneers in a run through, Miranda (Meryl Streep) snaps at her about how the decisions being made have everything to do with what Andy will ultimately wear.
Trickle Up / Inspiration Adoption #