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(waves (how they work (waves are transfers of energy, water only moves…
waves
how they work
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friction from sea bed slows down bottom of wave, top continues at same speed
wave becomes steeper, eventually breaks
Factors affecting waves
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fetch
distance over which the wind has blown, longer fetch = larger wave
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Constructive waves
smaller in height, less energy - weak backwash = little erosion
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Destructive waves
larger in height, more energy - strong backwash = erosion
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Cliffs and beaches
mass movement
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rockfalls
hard rock environment steep slope, falls from top of cliff to bottom
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wave refraction
As waves approach a coast they are refracted so that their energy is concentrated around headlands but reduced around bays. Waves then tend to approach coastline parallel to it, and their energy decreases as water depth decreases.