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Coastal processes (Waves (The size and energy of a wave is influenced by:,…
Coastal processes
Waves
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As the wind blows over the sea, friction is created - producing a swell in the water.
The energy of the wind causes water particles to rotate inside the swell and this moves the wave forward.
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Erosion
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The 4 types of erosion -
Hydraulic action.Air may become trapped in joints and cracks on a cliff face. When a wave breaks, the trapped air is compressed which weakens the cliff and causes erosion.
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Attrition. Waves smash rocks and pebbles on the shore into each other, and they break and become smoother.
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Deposition
When the sea loses energy, it drops the sand, rock particles and pebbles it has been carrying.
Deposition occurs when
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Waves enter a sheltered area, eg a cove or bay
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