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The Sea (Geography) (Waves (processes of coastal erosion (hydraulic action…
The Sea (Geography)
Waves
Sea always shaping coast, waves erode, transport and deposit
formed from wind blowing surface of sea,
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wave breaks, water that rushes up beach = swash, water back = backwash
waves, greater swash, deposit, constructive wave
larger backwash, erode = destructive wave
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People and the sea
beneficial, can be bad, erodes coast, people protecting homes, our interaction has positive and negative effects
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Negative interations
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overfishing depletes fish tock, fish farms are an eye sore
people erode sand banks by walking on them, leave litter on beach
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Coastal protection
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Sea walls
break incoming waves, have curved tops to push waves back
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Rock armour
large boulders base of cliff / dunes,wave breaks, hits armour and loses energy, reduces erosion
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Groynes
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extend into sea from land, trap sediments, longshore drift, to stop erosion of sand
negative impact however, sand trapped in one place no deposition later on, waves erode more
Gabions
Gabions wire cages of small stones, placed in front of beaches / dunes to break power of waves
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Rosslare Strand and Rosslare Harbour, Co. Wexford
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Harbour famous port, transport hub to the UK and France
strand situated north, five miles of sandy beaches, have Blue Flag status important tourist destination
sea wall built at harbour to keep channel clear, led to build-up of material south of harbour and reduction on beaches more north
tackled sediment issue with gabions, rock armour and groynes, sea bed sand dredged to nourish beach
Longshore drift
material transported by waves, sand, shingle, mud and eroded material = load
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steps
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waves approach land at an angle matching prevailing wind, swash moves load up the shore and deposits, waves break angle load moves along
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backwash carries material back down shore, follows slope of beach, straight line, repeated over and over, movement in a zigzag