2B - Coastal Landscapes and Change

The coast and littoral zone

All coastlines have show the same littoral sub-zones, but not all coastlines have similar landscapes.

Littoral zone: wider coastal zone, which includes the adjacent land areas, the shore and the shallow part of the sea just offshore.

It comprises of four sub-zones: coast; back-shore; foreshore and nearshore.

Classifying coasts

They may be classified in various ways, as for example by: geographical characteristics; the impacts of sea-level changes; the dominant coastal process.

Common but simple coastal classification distinguishes between...

Rocky or cliffed: clear distinction between land and sea, mainly due to cliff heights. High-energy coastline created from exposure to erosive forces of sea, rain and wind.

Coastal plains: where the land slopes gently towards the sea and there is an imperceptible transition from one to the other. These are often maintained in a state of dynamic equilibrium between the sediment deposition by river stems and offshore sediment and marine erosion (low-energy coastlines).

Rocky coasts and coastal plains

Rocky coasts result from a geology that's resistant to erosive forces and weather in high-energy environments.

Coastal plains are found in low relief areas and depend on the supply of terrestrial sediment.

Geological structure and the development of coastal landscapes

Geological structure: arrangement of rocks in three dimensions. Involves 3 key elements...

Deformation: degree to which rock strata have been tilted or folded by tectonic activity.

Faulting: presence of fractures along which rocks have moved.

Strata: different layers of rock and how they relate to each other.

Concordant and discordant coasts

Concordant: when rock strata run parallel to the coastline. Typical coastline = generally smooth or slightly indented.

Discordant: when different rock intersect the coast at an angle, so that lithology varies along the coastline. Typical coastline = bays and headlands.

Cliff profiles

Influenced by two different aspects of geology: the resistance of the rock to erosion and the angle of rock strata in relation to the coastline.

Other geological features that influence cliff profiles and rates of erosion...

Faults: rocks fractured = weakened either side of the fault line.

Joints: in most rocks and are potential lines of weakness.

Fissures: small cracks in rocks represent weakness that erosion can exploit.

Rates of coastal recession

Geological factors

Coastal erosion rate and recession is a critical aspect of the coastal zone. Rate is influenced by many factors but the most significant is lithology (rock type).

Follow this link for a table on the rates of erosion for different rock types:

Permeability: rocks such as sandstone and limestone allow water to pass through them. Groundwater flow through permeable rock can weaken rocks by removing the cement that binds the rock sediment. Outcome: slumping.

Coastal vegetation

Many coastlines are protected from unconsolidated sediment erosion by the stabilising influence of plants.

Many plants that grow in coastal environments are halophytes (can tolerate salt water) and xerophytes (can tolerate very dry conditions).

Through plant succession, sand dunes can convert a supply of sediment into land. It starts with specialised halophytic plants capable of growing in salty, bare sand.

Once established, they trap more sand and this leads to the formation of embryo dunes. The embryo dunes alter the environmental conditions to an environment in which xerophytic plants can flourish.

Marine erosion

Waves

Caused by friction between wind and water. They directly influence the three marine processes of erosion, transport and deposition.

Wave size and strength depends on the following four factors...

Length of time the wind blows for.

Water depth.

Strength of the wind.

Wave fetch (uninterrupted distance across water over which the wind blows).

Two types of waves...

Destructive waves: relatively high, short wavelength. Strong backwash that erodes and carries away beach material.

Constructive waves: low height, long wavelength. Strong swash (flow of water up beach) and weak backwash (return flow of water down beach).

Beach morphology

Definition: the shape of a beach, including its width and slope and features such as berms, ridges and runnels. It also includes the type of sediment (shingle, sand, mud) forming the beach.

Four diagnostic beach features of prevailing wind conditions...

Berms - small ridges from constructive waves during calm weather.

Cusps - gentle destructive waves eroding berms.

Storm beach - constructive waves during stormy weather.

Offshore bars - formed by persistent destructive waves.

Erosion processes

Waves cause erosion which is not necessarily a continuous process. It occurs during storms and when: waves approach at right angles; high tide; heavy rainfall weakens cliff rocks; debris at cliff foot has been removed and no longer protects this critical point.

Erosional landforms

There are four main types of marine erosion...

Abrasion: sediment being carried in the waves, has a wearing-down effect.

Attrition: wearing down of sediment as is moved around by waves.

Hydraulic action: wave quarrying when trapped air in joints and cracks is compressed by the force of waves crashing.

Corrosion (solution): carbonate rocks (i.e. limestone) are dissolved by rainwater, sea spray and seawater.

Most critical erosional feature would be a wave-cut notch formed by hydraulic action and abrasion. As the notch becomes deeper, the rocks overhanging it become unstable and eventually collapse.

Follow this link for a full diagram of all erosional landforms in resistant sedimentary rocks:

Marine transport and deposition

Sediment transportation

Sediment transported in four different ways...

Saltation: sediment bounces along the floor.

Suspension: fine sediment (silt, clay) is carried within the body of water.

Traction: Heavier sediment rolls along sea floor, pushed by waves and currents.

Solution: dissolved sediment (calcium carbonate) is carried in the water as a solution.

Transportation of sediment mainly takes place along the coast rather than into and away from the coast. This is known as longshore drift.

Swash pushes sediment obliquely up the beach and backwash returns it directly to the sea. This results in sediment slowly moving along the coast in the same direction as the waves approaching.

Depositional features

Main features...

Recurved hooked spit: spit built out into a bay or across an estuary, end curves landward into shallower water.

Bar: sand or shingle beach extending across a coastal indentation with a lagoon behind.

Spit: sand or shingle beach ridge extending beyond a turn in coastline.

Tombolo: sand or shingle bar that attaches a former offshore island to the coast.

Bayhead beach: accumulation of sand at the head of a sheltered stretch of water between two hadlands.

Cuspate foreland: triangular area of shingle extending out from a shore line, possibly made by longshore drifts.

Sediment cells

Explanation: long stretches of coastline that operate as self-contained physical systems.

In each one there are sources where sediment is generated, which are stretches where sediment is moving along the coast by longshore drift and currents, and sinks, locations where the dominant process is deposition.

Sub-aerial processes

Weathering

Chemical: involving a chemical reaction and decomposition.

Biological: actions of bacteria, plants and animals, which speed up mechanical or physical weathering.

Mechanical: rock breakdown by some form of physical force.

Mass movement - types common along cliffed coastlines

Rockfalls: where rock on a cliff is being undercut is weakened by weathering. Falls can be sudden.

Rotational slides: slow downslope movements of a mass of rock over a curved plane. Common where permeable overlies unstable impermeable rock.

Landslides: sudden downslope surges occurring when weathered rock and soil become saturated and lubricated by water.

Sea-level change

Change in sea level can be brought about by a change either in land level (isostatic) or in the volume of the sea (eustatic).

Long-term changes

Emergent and submergent coastlines

Contemporary sea-level change

Coastal recession

Rapid recession

Coastal flooding

Factors increasing risk

Climate change

Marine regression results from a eustatic (during glacial periods when water becomes locked up in ice and snow) fall in sea level and an isostatic (when ice sheets melt and the land rises) fall in sea level. Both movements expose the seabed and produce an emergent coast. See diagram:

Marine transgression results from a eustatic (end of glacial period) rise in sea level and an isotatic (when land sinks under the weight of accumulated snow and ice) rise in sea level. In both, large areas of land are submerged beneath the sea level, producing a submerging coast. See diagram:

Most scientists attribute rising levels to the impact of global warming. There are two components: thermal expansion of the oceans as they are warmed by change in climate; melting of ice sheets and glaciers increasing the water volume of the oceans.

Threatens people, their property and their livelihoods. It is caused by physical factors such as...

Strong longshore drift.

Soft or unconsolidated geology.

Long wave fetch and large destructive waves.

Cliffs with structural weaknesses and vulnerable to weathering and mass movement.

It can also be accelerated by human actions, such as...

River dams reducing the supply of sediment to the coast.

Coastal management (construction of groynes).

Dredging the offshore seabed for sand and gravel.

Rising sea level associated with global warming.

Human actions such as the removal of coastal vegetation, the building of coastal tourist resorts and the general pressure of population.

Risks and their consequences for communities

Economic costs: loss of property in the form of homes and businesses, the loss of transport lines, as well as the loss of farmland and other means of livelihood.

Social costs: impacts on people, i.e. the costs of relocation and community disruption, as well as the impact on health and well-being.

Environmental costs: the loss of coastal habitats and ecosystems.

Most at risk islands of rising sea levels are the Maldives, Tuvalu and Barbados. Land will simply have to be abandoned and left to disappear beneath the sea, creating a growing number of environmental refugees.

Different approaches to managing coastal risks

Hard engineering

Sea walls: made of reinforced concrete.

Rip-rap (rock armour): huge rock boulders piled up at the base of a sea wall.

Rock breakwaters: usually built of huge boulders, but offshore.

Revetments: stone, timber or interlocking concrete structures on dune faces and mud banks.

Groynes: vertical stone or timber fences built at 90 degrees to the coast and spaced along a beach.

Advantages: obvious to those at risk that something is being done to protect them; it can be a one-off action that protects for decades.

Disadvantages: construction and on-going maintenance costs are high; carefully designed engineering systems can fail; coastal ecosystems can be badly affected; defences can have adverse effects further along the coast.

Soft engineering

Cliff stabilisation: planting vegetation through a tough, flexible membrane that holds soil and often rock in place; can also be done by regrading and reducing cliff slopes.

Dune stabilisation: dunes are effective but are easily degraded; they can be established by planting marram grass and by constructing relatively cheap dune fencing.

Beach nourishment: topping up beaches with sediment transported from elsewhere.

Sustainable coastal management

Follow the link for a diagram describing different types of sustainable coastal management:

Integrated coastal zone management (IZCM)

It is a concept that has three main features. It recognises:
1) That the entire coastal zone needs to be managed, not just where erosion or flooding is taking place.
2) The importance of the coastal zone to people's livelihoods and well-being.
3) The need to make the management of the coast sustainable.

The IZCM is a joined-up approach to coastal management which must: plan long-term; involve all stakeholders and ensure they have a say in policy decisions; follow an 'adaptive' approach to unforseen changes; try to work with natural processes rather than against them.

The hard part is the decision-making process to decide actions to take. There are four different management options to follow in the UK: no active intervention; hold the line (build coastal defences); managed realignment (allowing change but in a controlled way); advance the line (build new coastal defences).

The choice of management is dependent on a number of factors...

The environmental sensitivity.

The cultural and ecological value of the land.

Technical feasibility of different solutions.

Pressure from local communities, developers and environmental groups.

Economic value of the assets that might be protected.

Problems with the ICZM

Dissatisfaction will be rooted in the fact that local councils and governments have limited funds, so not all coastal areas can be protected.

Coastal managers are forced to prioritise which areas should be protected and which will have to be ignored.